I was intrigued and not a little bit cynical to hear that the area south of Edinburgh, known as the Scottish Borders, is now being packaged as the Larder of Britain. I first visited the region 20 years ago and the culinary climax on that trip was a 'fish supper' from a chippy in Peebles. Good though this was, it evoked no gastronomic memories. It was time to revisit and so I signed up for a cycling foodie tour of the Scottish Borders from Peebles, along the Tweed Valley, up into the Southern Uplands and on to the town of Kelso. Would I have the stamina to cover the 50 miles or so in two days? Who knows, but that larder had better be full.
Our group was met at Berwick by two hearty chaps from Go-where (go-where.co.uk), an ingenious company who tailor-make such tours, provide bikes, transport luggage between resting posts and act as guides along the route.
After a pit stop at the Tontine (tontinehotel.com), a traditional hotel with a contemporary twist, it was off to Cocoa Black (cocoablack.co.uk), a cookery school where the exuberant owner Ruth Hinks runs chocolate-making workshops. Resembling a sixth-form chemistry class, we poured, dipped and stirred with a constant eye on the temperature to avoid greasy textures or, more unappetising, a white sheen. Two hours later, we left, proudly clutching a bag of our very own honey and caramel truffles.
Back at the Tontine, we tried not to overindulge in them (and the hotel's killer cocktails) as we sat mesmerised by a rainbow that shimmered above the Tweed. But time to put the sweeteners aside and prepare to get on our bikes the following day.
Next morning, togged out in layers that would lay claim to any climatic eventuality, we listened as Andy and Steve talked us through the route and gave simple pointers on cycling safety. And then we were off. Fortunately, the roads were empty and the bikes top-notch so once we mastered the 27 gears, we relaxed, and with the scent of wild garlic in our nostrils, ospreys wheeling overhead and the mighty Tweed rolling along to our left, we were hooked.
On to the town of Innerleithen and elevenses at Caddon View (caddonview.co.uk), a homely guesthouse where we nibbled on a delicious confection of pastry and mixed fruits known as Border Tart. Meanwhile, the owners filled us in on how the area is reinventing itself as a centre for mountain biking, walking, golf and fishing, in the wake of a once-thriving cashmere industry. And with the last mill having closed this year, outdoor tourism is now vital for the region.
