The Bwindi Impenetrable Forest certainly lives up to its name. The canopy is a roof of tightly intertwined trees and vines that create layer upon layer of shadow. The early-morning cloud hangs low and uninviting amid the branches. Our guide, Male, promises, however, that the forest can be infiltrated — but it's not going to be easy.
Fifteen minutes into our trek through Uganda's great forest, I lose count of the number of times I have slipped on the muddy ground. So has Male, apparently, who carries on regardless. As he disappears into the deep green, the only thing I can hear is the sound of his machete thrashing through the thick undergrowth and a murmur of excited voices. I pause to catch my breath (the higher altitude makes you feel more unfit than you might otherwise), and, suddenly, through a gap in the trees, I see the unmistakable, magnificent silhouette of a great ape.
It's hard to exaggerate the sense of exhilaration you feel laying eyes on a mountain gorilla. As an animal lover and trained zoologist, I have been dreaming of this moment for a long time. But you don't have to be a nature geek to get the thrill. I understand immediately what David Attenborough meant when he said, 'There is more meaning and mutual understanding in exchanging a glance with a gorilla than with any other animal I know.'
I'm in Uganda with the Brighton-based World Primate Safaris. Not only do they offer expert knowledge of primates and the best places to see them, but they support the local communities and work alongside conservation organisations such as The Born Free Foundation. The goal of our trip is to see gorillas in the wild, not just in Uganda but across the border in Rwanda too.
We're staying at the Gorilla Forest Camp, a sumptuous tented lodge, and one of only two places to stay within the Impenetrable Forest, which means a crucial extra half-hour in bed with a hot-water bottle before the morning trek. We arrived in Entebbe on Lake Victoria a week ago, travelling west by 4x4, following the foothills of the Rwenzori mountains southwards with our anticipation of seeing the gorillas growing every step of the way. Distances are short compared to most of East Africa — safari sites are usually between two and five hours' drive away. From the 4x4 window, Uganda's landscape was gloriously inconstant — mountains slope into plains of grass and acacia, thick jungle melts into eastern savannah. We walked with chimpanzees in Kibale National Forest, watched hippos and crocodiles wallowing in mud on the banks of the Kazinga Channel and witnessed lions climbing trees in Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth National Park.
And now I'm in Bwindi, home to one of the richest ecosystems in Africa, located on the far southwestern tip of Uganda, literally face to face with a gorilla. And not just one. I feel like I am being watched from every angle — and I am. Our gorilla is part of a 22-strong family group, and the biggest habituated group of gorillas in Bwindi.
There are gorillas everywhere. Adults are busy feeding while juveniles slide down tree trunks like fluffy firemen. And as we creep nearer the centre of the group it is clear which great ape demands the most attention. In the distance sits a regal silverback, glaring at his visitors with vague contempt. After several minutes, he emanates a mighty huff and turns his muscular back on us, showing off a fine matt of grey hair. In a sulky fit he flounces on to a bed of leaves, only to be surrounded by several females who begin grooming his thick hair. Male whispers that this is Rwansigozi, meaning 'strong young man'. Rwansigozi lies back contentedly, his deep-throated murmurs rumbling through the impenetrable forest.
