The path rises almost vertically above me, barely visible through a tangle of vines and ferns. I'm hanging on to a bit of webbing tied to a branch, too nervous to look down, and can hardly catch my breath. Luckily my only witnesses are birds and several big spiders, which scuttle out of view at the sound of my boots. There are plenty of signs that wild boar roam through this forest, but they're obviously waiting for dusk to start foraging. Pretty green monkeys swoop from tree to tree in the foliage a long way above.
The hike to the misty summit of Nevis Peak — the imposing extinct volcano that dominates this island no matter where you are on it — is described by locals as 'strenuous'. That's turning out to be a massive understatement. For nearly two hours, I've hauled myself up a slithery, red, muddy trail, inching up an incline that rises at a dizzy rate, using ropes, branches and rocks as leverage. My fingernails are broken and full of earth. I'm covered in sweat and not even halfway to the top where — I've been told — fabulous views await me. Lynnell, my guide, warned me at the start of the morning the route was tough, but I didn't comprehend just how difficult. I've climbed Kilimanjaro, trekked in the Himalayas and staggered to the top of an extinct volcano on the border of Chile and Bolivia, but I've never encountered anything like this.
For 30 years I have dreamt of standing on Nevis Peak, and now I'm realising it will be a massive struggle. Only 3,232ft high, the slopes to the summit are almost sheer in places. The dense tropical rainforest covering this imposing mountain hides a network of overgrown paths several hundred years old, originally linking the farms, sugar and coconut plantations built on the fertile soil of the lower slopes. Now, these bridleways and tracks have fallen into disrepair, and guides like Lynnell are fighting a losing battle to clear them as walking trails, using inmates from the local prison farm to hack through the vines and saplings, which spring up after every rainstorm.
Travel essentials
Way to go
British Airways flies to St Kitts twice a week from London Gatwick. Then take a local ferry to Nevis. Stay seven nights at the four-star Montpelier Plantation & Beach in Nevis with BA from £1,569 per person departing during 15 August-25 October. Includes return BA flights from London Gatwick to St Kitts, in-resort arrival transfers and B&B. Subject to availability, based on two sharing and includes all UK taxes. Visit ba.com/stkitts or call +44 (0)844 493 0758.
Avios points
Earn up to 20,560 BA Miles when you fly Club World to St Kitts as a premier member of the Executive Club. Or redeem you BA Miles. For example, 50,000 will get you to St Kitts.
Book now at ba.com
