Destinations

5. Wild interior
While the coastline will always be Tobago's dominant attraction, there is much to see if you forge inland. In its eastern half, the terrain rears upwards, becoming forested, hilly and unexpectedly wild. This lost-world ambience manifests itself in several ways, but the most dramatic is the Argyle Waterfalls — a three-tiered cascade that plunges 54m down a craggy slope. Located off the Windward Road, just north of the village of Roxborough, it is accessed via a 20-minute hike along a trail from the parking area. Admission is £5, which includes a guide.

6. Something in reserve
Also in the east, the Tobago Forest Reserve shows Tobago's remarkable biodiversity in its most intense form. Laid out around the Main Ridge (the isle's tree-clad spine) is the oldest protected rainforest zone on the planet — it was ring-fenced in 1776. As a result, it shelters many of the 6,000 plant and animal species that call Tobago home. Hiking paths meander through this humid enclave and provide a glimpse of the island as it was a millennium ago. Details at gotrinidadandtobago.com.

7. On the wing
With the twittering array of feathered friends that flit in its canopy — kingfishers, motmots, hummingbirds — the Forest Reserve 
is heaven for birdwatchers. But then so is the entire island. Caledonia Wildlife Bird Sanctuary, 
at Black Rock near Turtle Beach, plays host to a rainbow of coloured plumage. Then there is the Holy Grail, the islet of Little Tobago, which sits just over a mile off the east coast. Peter Cox Nature Tours (tobagonaturetours.com) does trips out to this raw bluff, where seabirds — the brown booby and the red-billed tropicbird — breed.

8. Stay awhile
Excursions to Little Tobago sail from Speyside, a charming village on the main island's eastern lip. The Blue Waters Inn is basic but comfy (bluewatersinn.com), its 38 rooms 
set next to Batteaux Bay. A seven-night stay in September costs from £697 a head (two sharing) via British Airways (+44(0)844 493 0758, britishairways.com/holidays), including direct flights from London Gatwick and breakfast. The coral-rich waters of the bay are also ideal for diving. Aquamarine Dive (aquamarinedive.com) serves up a 'Discover Scuba Diving' taster for £51.

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