For nature lovers
Outside of Rio and São Paulo, the natural world offers endless respite from the carnival revellers with waterfall-filled forests and unspoilt landscapes. On Ilhabela, or beautiful island, in São Paulo state, there’s hiking opportunities for all comers and much of the island is part of a protected park. From São Paulo, it’s a four-hour drive to São Sebastian and then a 15-minute hop across – definitely worth the effort.
For an easy walk with stunning views, follow the trail that links Sepituba point to Bonete beach until you reach the Cachoeira da Lage waterfall – one of the island’s best – or trek to the 70m-high Cachoeira do Gato. Keep an eye out for otters, toucans, lizards, wildcats, parakeets and ocelots.
Further east along the coast, a world of Atlantic rainforest treks awaits around Ubatuba – a small coastal town where city slickers’ elegant beach homes and stylish boutique guesthouses sit among the mountains of Serra do Mar State Park. Trails crisscross the region to Native American settlements, fishing villages, deserted beaches, waterfalls and river pools.
Ilha Grande, an island south of Rio, is as famous for its eco trails as its beaches and is also a state park (land and marine) with around 200sq km of untouched tropical forest, rivers and waterfalls. Once known as the ‘Alcatraz of Brazil’ because of the two prisons that existed until 1994, the island is unspoilt and so beautiful many visitors don’t want to leave (including several of the ex-cons, who elected to stay put).
Trek across the island, past Cândido Mendes prison (where the notorious Red Command gang formed in 1979) to Dois Rios beach, and you’ll feel like you’ve strayed on to the set of Jurassic Park. Or head for the heights and climb the island’s iconic symbol, Parrot’s Beak, and feast on spectacular views of the bay.
For the cocktail crew
While you may be escaping the madness of carnival chaos, there’s still plenty of nightlife close by if you find yourself hankering for some after-dark fun. Guarujá, on the coast 90km from São Paulo, is a lively resort with bars and clubs that buzz long into the night. Try the Lotus Club (Avenue Miguel Stefano, 1001 Enseada), where up to 3,000 party-goers head to dance the night away to tunes spun by local and international DJs.
On the same street, the Phoenix Club is worth a look for its go-go dancers and electronic beats, while another good club on the circuit is the Lucky Scope (Praça Walter Belian, 86 Jardim Guaiúba), where the repertoire includes samba, pop rock, disco, techno and MPB (Brazil’s popular music). The Marina Santa Aldeia (Avenue Eugênio Fisher, 180 Astúrias) is the latest addition to the pack. It’s on the harbour, so the super-stylish can sail right up and dock at one of the club’s exclusive moorings.
For golf addicts
If teeing off is more your bag than carnival partying, try the many excellent golf resorts close to the big cities. Just outside of Angra dos Reis, two hours by road from Rio, Hotel do Frade (hoteldofrade.com.br) has an 18-hole course, designed by Dave Thomas and Peter Alliss, with nine holes on the flat and the other nine providing ‘eco golf’, as you snake around rivers and lakes, then onto the rainforest-clad hillsides where orchids bloom. Just take care not to lose your golf balls in the dense jungle or fast-moving streams. All the necessary equipment is for hire and instructors are available to teach the basics.
Búzios, on the coast two hours east of Rio, is not only good for beaches, but golf, too. Its first-rate 18-hole course at Búzios Golf Club (buziosgolf.com.br), designed by Pete and Perry Dye (there are sea views from many points), is considered one of the best in Latin America and attracts players from all over the world. Footballer Ronaldo ‘the Phenomenon’ has graced the course and Brazilian cabinet ministers fly in by helicopter to tee off. The links sports dense undergrowth, salt-marsh and lakes, along with cunningly placed bunkers and lateral sand hazards to ensure a challenge. There is also a driving range, practice putting green and bunker, and lessons are available for all levels.
Forty minutes outside São Paulo, the São Fernando Golf Club (saofernando.com.br) offers a challenging, picturesque course and plush club for relaxing after a round or two, while Guaruja has one of the oldest golf courses in Brazil, inaugurated in 1960 (guarujagolfclube.com.br).
Read on to find out where to go for culture vultures, beach bunnies and sports fiends.
