Last Halloween, I went to Seattle for the world's first international zombie culture convention — 20,000 fans, all dressed as zombies. It was terrific. Some of the most attractive young people you can imagine, spending hours to look absolutely disgusting. It's no accident that it happened in Seattle. This rejection of conventional beauty is something that characterises the city — it's almost like a manifestation of punk, just as grunge was.
I was taken to Seattle as a baby when the World Fair was on in 1962. The space was designed by the architect who built the World Trade Center. It was his only other major commission, so a lot of the elements that went into that were initially tried out in this neogothic space age place. They're visible in Seattle Center, in this huge pavilion that still stands there, and in the Space Needle.
On later trips, we would take the ferry boats that run from Seattle to all the outlying suburbs on islands just offshore. There's almost that Venice feel — people take ferries and water taxis as part of their everyday lives.
Now I get here maybe six times a year. All my college friends moved to Seattle. It's nice, but I'm a little afraid of actually moving to the city. It's like a mistress — something special that you maybe don't want every day. I'm afraid it would become pedestrian. The Pacific North West is a place people move to as a last resort, so it ends up with a high percentage of misfits. But it also ends up with people who have a very specific vision that didn't fit in with where they came from, and who are the type of people with the motivation to do something about it. So Seattle has a lot of great restaurants and art galleries that may not reach an international or national audience, but that do well here.
I'm usually put up in a very nice hotel by my publisher. I've always favoured the Alexis Hotel. It has a small bar and restaurant, and my friends come to eat and drink for free on my expense account. I also like the Fairmont Olympic Hotel — it has an enormous dining room, but it's definitely a quiet place. I kind of love that about it.
The Ruins is a private dining club I'd like to go back to. I've been there once and it was just terrific, but you have to be a member to get a reservation. They have several enormous themed dining rooms, one with a stuffed elephant in it. There's a table underneath its stomach where you can eat.
The music side of my life is kind of over and done with. I'm so much more of a book person now, and I'll go and hear people read at book stores. Elliott Bay Book Store is really the best place. They have a fantastic meeting space in the basement with a café.
Chuck Palahniuk is the author of Fight Club (Vintage, £7.99) and Choke (Vintage, £7.99)
