Hotels
Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt
The latest and last word in 21st-century luxury gets shaken up with classic Buenos Aires architectural decadence. Avenida Alvear 1661, Recoleta. +54 11 5171 1234 (from £210 per night)
Hotel Home
Enjoy Knoll retro modernism with a soupçon of floral wallpaper chintz at this boutique hotel par excellence, a stone’s throw from shopping spree central. Avenida Honduras 5608, Palermo. +54 11 4778 1008 (from £95 per night)
Mansion Dandi Royal
The Dandi Royal is an elegant tango-themed pre-1930s shrine to Argentine nouveau, complete with three ballrooms to practise your moves in. Piedras 922-936, San Telmo. +54 11 4307 7623 (from £87 per night)
1555 Malabia House B&B
The best budget option in town is nonetheless a design-conscious experience, coupling historic architecture with a 2007 take on furnishing. Malabia 1555, Palermo. +54 11 4833 2410 (from £55 per night)
Faena Hotel + Universe
The Philippe Starck interior is heavily reminiscent of those old Morgans hotel projects in New York, LA, Miami and London, but there’s no denying that Faena is full of fun and decidedly rock’n’roll. Martha Salotti 445, Puerto Madero. +54 11 4010 9000 (from £200 per night)
Restaurants
El Pobre Luis
Uruguyan chef Luis Coins is the king of barbecue at this understated assado spot, resplendent with football shirts. Check any remotely vegetarian sensibilities at the door. Arribeños 2393, esq. Blanco Encalada, Belgrano. +54 11 4780 5847
Osaka
This Peruvian/Japanese fusion restaurant is a scene sensation. Book well in advance for some of the most creative sushi in South America. Soler 5608, esq. Fitzroy, Palermo. +54 11 4775 6964
El Obrero
The buzz around this down and dirty back-street parilla has receded, but the quality of the food, and the experience, certainly hasn’t. Augustin Caffarena 64, El Boca. +54 11 4362 9912
Sucre
Dramatic industrial-chic decor and the delicious meats from the wood-fired grill help to keep Sucre at the top of the hip list. 676 Sucre, Belgrano. + 54 11 4782 9082
El Diamante
The Latin food may be tasty but its the social buzz on the rooftop terrace that makes this a white-hot destination for Porteños. 1688 Malabia Street, Palermo. +54 11 4831 5735
La Bourgogne
The best French food south of the equator. Avenida Alvear 1891, Recoleta. +54 11 4805 3857
Casa Cruz
Fight the beautiful people for a table at this ultra-hip eatery serving an international menu. Uriarte 1658, Palermo. +54 11 4833 1112
Clubs and bars
Bar 6
This high-ceilinged SoHo-style space is a favourite for those looking for somewhere to hang out solo with their silver Powerbook of an afternoon. Fantastic cocktails. Armenia 1676, Palermo. +54 11 4833 6807
Tazz
Brand new and very shiny futuristic-looking watering hole with a buzzing pavement scene. Tip-top Mexican snacks too. Serrano 1556, Palermo. +54 11 4833 5164
Ultimoso Beso
Is it a bar, restaurant or boutique? Ultimoso brings you all three under a cutting-edge contemporary roof. Nicaragua 4880, Palermo. +54 11 4832 7711
Gran Bar Danzon
An outpost of the Sucre style empire, Danzon is a ravishing and modern candlelit and polished concrete cocktail bar. Libertad 1161, Recoleta. +54 11 4811 1108
The Oak Bar
Sink a refreshing So White cocktail (Sauvignon, pineapple juice and mint) in this wood-lined, gent’s-club environment overlooking a garden. Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt, Avenida Alvera 1661, Recoleta. +54 11 5171 1234
Shops
Juana de Arco
Fantastical and cutesy girlie clothes, dolls and accessories, including candy-coloured jewellery made from vintage buttons. El Salvador 4762, Palermo. +54 11 4833 1621
Tramando
After splitting with design partner Jessica Trosman, Martin Churba has gone on to establish himself and his store as the most contemporary fashion force in chic but staid Recoleta. Rodriguez Peña 1973, Recoleta. +54 11 4816 9422
Humawaca
The brightly coloured leather bags and purses at Humawaca are the most mod accessories that you will find anywhere in the city, and they now have enthusiastic MoMA NYC endorsement. El Salvador 4692, Palermo. +54 11 4584 5008
Patio Bullrich
The swankiest mall in town houses all the big local and international names whether you’re in the market for crocodile-skin shoes, cosmetics or raunchy lingerie. Av Libertador 750, Recoleta. +54 11 4814 7400
Juan Carlos Pallarols
Juan Carlos is the sixth-generation silversmith in the Pallarols family, a dynasty responsible for Eva Peron’s death mask as well as the Vatican’s silverware. Pricey but exquisite. Defensa 1039, San Telmo. +54 11 4300 6555
What to buy
Sumptuous leather
Rossi & Caruso “Bolso Camesero” navy blue and hazelnut leather shirt carrier with shoe drawer ($1,383). Argentina is heaven for leather and the city’s finest luggage store gives Prada a run for its peso. Rossi & Caruso, Posadas 1387, Recoleta. +54 11 4811 1965
Heavenly chocolate
A box of 24 plain chocolate dulce de leche Havanna Alfajores ($39.50). Sweetened and boiled condensed milk meets biscuit to create the Argentine answer to the Wagon Wheel. As addictive as crack and a national treasure indeed. Havanna, Guido 1996, Recoleta – and branches across town. havanna.com.ar
A fashionable red
Malbec is the grape of the Mendoza wine region. Try a bottle of the excellent Doña Paula Seleccion de Bodega 2004 Malbec ($160). Grand Cru, Av Alvear 1718, Recoleta. +54 11 4816 3975
Snooty booties
Adolfo Cambiosa is the world’s most famous polo player, so polo boots ($1,600) from his super-chic boutique La Dolfina make a fine souvenir. La Dolfina, Av Alvear 1315, Recoleta. +54 11 4815 2698
A kit to get on
The mean streets of La Boca cower in the shadow of the mighty Boca Juniors football stadium, and an official shirt ($70) is a must-have. Boca Juniors, Brandsen 805, La Boca. bocajuniors.com/ar
Read more about Buenos Aires in Boom, bust and keep on dancing
