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The Caribbean: St Vincent and Grenadines

September 2011

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The Caribbean’s sleepy St Vincent and the Grenadines move along at their own pace – the perfect respite from the buzz of Barbados, says Ben Lerwill
Grenadines, Saint Vincent Island
Donald Nausbaum

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The swirling music and cobblestone streets of the capital Kingston make it a diverting place to wander through.

Day One
In St Vincent and the Grenadines, say the locals, change happens slowly. They're proud of the fact. For those who think of the Caribbean as one long archipelago of hotels and poolside frangipani trees, these islands are a neat way of breaking the misconception. They sit just 100 miles due west of Barbados, but while half-hour air connections are regular, the similarities are few. Where Barbados is slick, SVG (to use regional parlance) is the perfect place to decamp for a weekend.

Spend your first day on St Vincent itself, the main island. The swirling music and cobblestone streets of the capital Kingstown make it a diverting place to wander through, particularly during the portside morning market. Even more relaxed are the Botanical Gardens, said to be the oldest in the tropical world. In the afternoon, earn your grilled seafood supper by walking along the Parrot Lookout Trail, before spending the night in the sepia-tinged, old-world comfort of Grenadine House (grenadinehouse.com).

Day Two
The most famous of the Grenadines is Mustique — bolt hole of choice for celebrities with platinum credit cards. But its playground vibe is unrepresentative of the country as a whole. More in keeping with the 'Vincy' way of life is Bequia (pronounced Beck-way), a 25-minute sail from Kingstown. It's said that the shaggy-hilled island is a living example of how the Caribbean used to be in the 60s and 70s. Hymns drift from whitewashed churches, goats rest under mango trees and wooden boats bob idly about.

Fittingly, there aren't too many accommodation options. An enticing bet is the newly unveiled Bequia Beach Hotel (bequiabeach.com), situated on a serene sandy bay. If you're keen to see a little of the island, reggae-powered minibuses pootle round the jungle roads and can be flagged down with ease, while more structured itineraries are possible with a guided drive.

Points of interest include a whaling museum and a turtle sanctuary, and it pays to know that the implausibly sleepy 'capital', Port Elizabeth, is within easy walking distance of some great beaches. Take dinner back at the hotel for barbecued lobster and rum punch.

Day Three      
The Grenadines enjoy hallowed status in yachting circles, so it's virtually an obligation to dedicate at least one day to the pleasures of island hopping. Joining a full-day cruise will allow you to take in the country's most celebrated attractions, including the Tobago Cays. Frilled with white sand and ringed by reef, these five uninhabited islands were used as locations in the Pirates of the Caribbean films. The water is as clear as you'll find anywhere, which means the snorkelling is world-class — a noiseless realm of turtles, coral and parrotfish.

Despite its Hollywood kudos, Tobago Cays is far from being the only part of the archipelago that wows. Sailing from Bequia will show off the green scenery of lesser-known islands such as Mayreau and Canouan. And if the sea gods are smiling, the return journey may feature dolphin-watching over afternoon tea.

Need to know

Do: Travel in late June/early July for the festival of Vincy Mas, the country's biggest party. carnivalsvg.com

Read: Cecil Browne's The Moon Is Following Me - tales of village life in SVG.  

Staying for more than 72 hours? Palm Island Resort — the sole occupant of the eponymous private island — provides week-long, all-inclusive stays in a dreamy setting. wandotravel.com, +44 (0)845 277 3310 

Where to stay

Luxury: The five-star, all- inclusive Buccament Bay Resort on St Vincent opened last year — the property has its own Liverpool FC Soccer School and ESPA Spa. BA offers seven nights for £1,649 pp (Based on October departures. Includes return flights from Gatwick and all-inclusive accommodation. Based on two sharing). ba.com/buccamentbay,+44 (0)844 493 0758

Mid-range: Bequia Beach Hotel, on Friendship Bay, is a tasteful resort with a focus on good food. W&O Travel offers seven nights for £1,275 pp (Valid for travel during 7 October - 8 December including airport transfers). wandotravel.com +44 (0)845 277 3310

Budget: The Frangipani is one of Bequia's oldest hotels, and offers doubles from £37, with shared bathroom. It has its own beach bar. frangipanibequia.com

Travelling to the Caribbean? Plan your Perfect Day at facebook.com/britishairways.





Travel essentials

Way to go

British Airways flies to Barbados and St Lucia, with onward connections to St Vincent with Liat.

Posted by Ben Lerwill

Tags

Caribbean, Barbados, Antigua, British-Virgin-Islands

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