Check in
You'd be hard-pressed to find a more sophisticated international hotel in Tokyo than The Peninsula (peninsula.com, £££): 314 rooms and suites have everything from telescopes to nail-polish dryers. No such luxuries at the Kimi Ryokan (kimi-ryokan.jp, £), but expect a terrific welcome in this veteran mainstay of Ikebukuro's budget accommodation.
BA (ba.com/tokyo; +44 (0)844 493 0758) offers five nights at the five-star
The Peninsula from £1,919 pp including flights.*
Dig in
Like a few Michelin stars with your meal? There's plenty on offer at Ryu Gin (nihonryori-ryugin.com, £££) and long-term fans of the ultra-Japanese menu are never the least bit surprised when the restaurant garners yet another award. For somewhere with a little more edge, try R2 Supperclub (r2sc.jp, ££) in the heart of Roppongi.
On the radar
It's the sheer volume, and the variety, of the fish up for sale first thing in the morning at Tsukiji market (tsukiji-market.or.jp) that makes it so intriguing. This is an authentic working market, filled with noise and bright lights.
Below the radar
In essence, Blue Note (bluenote.co.jp, ££) is a jazz supper club; the food's good, but you really come here for the music, which spans a variety of genres played by artists from all over the world.
£££ Work on that bonus
££ Spoil yourself
£ Great value
BA (ba.com) flies to Tokyo.
*Based on two people sharing, for travel in 5 May and 21 July. Price includes return flights from Heathrow and accommodation with breakfast.