Genoa and Portofino
With its mix of the old and the new, Genoa is as multilayered as the hills it clings to. Once one of the richest cities in Europe, for centuries it was a Grand Tour must-see visited by Henry James, Anton Chekhov and Dylan Thomas. But its glamour faded in the 20th century as it was (wrongly) dismissed as little more than Italy’s northern port city. But the charm is still there. Washing lines hang between vertiginous candy-coloured houses, geraniums spill out of window boxes and the salty smell of the sea hangs in the air.
It has one of the oldest, most sprawling and best-preserved medieval cities. Here you’ll find narrow lanes that can barely accommodate anything wider than a scooter, at least three world-class churches and countless great neighbourhood restaurants (be sure to order a bowl of mandilli – a flat pasta served with pesto). And for one of the most sumptuous views in Europe, head to the Palazzo Rosso museum with its rooftop viewing platform perched high above the city (unless you suffer from vertigo).
After a day exploring Genoa, change the pace of your weekend by taking the 45-minute drive further down the Ligurian coast to Portofino, one of the most photogenic fishing ports in the Mediterranean. Home to the exclusive Hotel Splendido, it has been a magnet for Europe’s beau monde, from Rex Harrison and Elizabeth Taylor to Naomi Campbell and Sting, for decades. Wrapped in wisteria, the Splendido has three restaurants, a salt-water pool, spa and truly charming staff (Luca, the concierge is quite possibly the best in the world). Views stretch across the picturesque harbour filled with elegant yachts and fishing boats, and there’s a tiny beach a few minutes walk away, where you can catch the last of the year’s sun.
Why now?
To avoid the crowds – and higher prices – of the summer season.
Rest your head at…
The Hotel Splendido (+44 (0)845 077 2222, hotelsplendido.com ), where, from 15 September until 8 November, double rooms start from £760 per room per night including breakfast, à la carte lunch or dinner and service.
Way to go
British Airways flies daily to Genoa from London Gatwick.
Istanbul
A shopping haven for some 1,500 years, there’s more to this Europe-meets-Asia stop-off on the Silk Road than tea sets and Turkish delight. For an antidote to haggling in the Grand Bazaar, head to the ritziest uptown neighbourhoods. Nisantası has big-name boutiques and perfumeries as well as chic department store Beymen (+90 212 343 0404, beymen.com.tr ).
Meanwhile, the cantilevered Kanyon mall in Levent is home to Istanbul’s best collection of international designers, a Harvey Nichols – complete with a private shopping suite for big-spenders – and Vakko (+90 212 482 0404, vakko.com ), a luxe Turkish boutique with an exclusive range by Manhattan favourite Zac Posen. For one-of-a-kind creations, Gonul Paksoy (+90 212 261 9081) whips up head-turners made from antique Anatolyan fabric. Go accessory hunting in the tiny neighbourhood of Ortakoy, where streets come alive at night with a market full of jewellery and fortune-tellers. To cool your heels, the only way is up – at one of the city’s buzzing rooftop venues. Istanbul 360 (+90 212 251 1042, 360, istanbul.com ) offers minimal chic and a bird’s-eye view over the entire city.
Why now?
For a fabulous selection of new-season fashion bargains.
Rest your head at…
the Bentley Hotel – six floors of discreet chic in Nisantası. The decor is a stylish mix of stone and chocolate tones and there are lavish penthouses with outdoor showers. Design Hotels (+44 (0)800 37 46 8357, designhotels.com ) offers standard rooms with breakfast from £142.
Way to go
British Airways flies to Istanbul from London Heathrow. British Airways Holidays offers three nights bed and breakfast at the four-star Richmond hotel in Istanbul from £504 per person, including return British Airways flights from Heathrow, based on two sharing and including all UK taxes. Visit ba.com or call British Airways Holidays on +44 (0)844 493 0758.
