The extension to the Welsh Highland Railway (+44 (0)1766 516 000,
festrail.co.uk) from Caernarfon to Beddgelert cuts a steam-powered swathe through the national park, with returns for £27 in the Pullman carriage. The final seven-mile section to Porthmadog will open next spring, joining up with the Ffestiniog Railway to form the longest narrow-gauge route in Europe.
Hafod Eryri (+44 (0)1766 770 274,
eryri-npa.gov.uk), the visitor centre and café atop Mount Snowdon, is staking its claim as the new highest building in England and Wales. The all-glass frontage has panoramic views across the mountain range, while the new terminus of the Snowdon Mountain Railway, the UK’s only public rack and pinion track, provides a smooth ride to the top without the eight-mile up-and-down hike.
Back on terra firma, the slew of smart places to stay and eat is testament to the way Wales is reinventing itself as a chic but good-value alternative to the eurozone this summer. Y Goeden Eirin (+44 (0)1286 830 942,
ygoedeneirin.co.uk, doubles from £80 B&B) is a converted-farm guest house near Caernarfon, where Welsh literature and art accompany the coffee after a hearty dinner. Similarly homely but more of a family-friendly option is Ffynnon (+44 (0)1341 421 774,
ffynnontownhouse.com, doubles from £120 B&B), a boutique, four-room B&B in Dolgellau, which proves that stylish surroundings and children are not mutually exclusive.
Welsh lamb is the local supper staple and Mawddach (+44 (0)1341 424 020,
mawddach.com), a new eatery outside Dolgellau, does it particularly well with produce fresh from the family farm next door.
For something tasty but simple, Siop Y Gornel (+44 (0)1678 520 423,
siop-y-gornel.co.uk), a rustic deli in Bala, offers freshly baked snacks and homemade soup for the drive home.
