Friday
The rapid train from the airport costs £3 and it will be your only transport expense in this pedestrian-friendly city. Check into Copenhagen's central Danhostel (danhostel.dk; doubles £60). It’s a buzzy place with smart design features – no down-at-heel vibe here.
To get your bearings, have a wander through nearby Slotsholmen, the historic heart of Copenhagen, which feels a world apart. It’s dominated by an austere palace that’s home to the Danish parliament, but also features a maze of alleys that invite you to wander. Head south and, at the water’s edge, you’ll find Nyhavn, a lovely stretch of canal edged by brightly painted 17th-century buildings. Yes, it’s undeniably touristy but also great fun. Weather permitting, sit outside a café to enjoy a beer (£5) – if it’s chilly, the waiter will provide a blanket – or try friendly Cap Horn at no 21 for herrings, or an organic burger (£12).
Saturday
Refuel with a morning cuppa and a Danish pastry (£5) – lighter and flakier than their equivalent abroad – from one of Copenhagen's many coffee shops.
There’s no more fun way to orientate yourself in this waterfront city than by taking a boat trip – the best value is offered by Netto-Badene, with trips departing from Holmens Kirke and taking in Nyhavn, the Amalienborg Palace and the famous (albeit tiny) Little Mermaid statue (£7, from 1 April).
Back on dry land, a good lunch option is to pick up a take-away smørrebrød (open sandwich, £6) from one of the many cafés that serve the city’s workers. Shoppers should then head north to trendy Nørrebro – leafy and gentrified, and home to some good design and fashion shops, as well as the tree-lined Assistens Kirkegård, where Hans Christian Andersen is buried.
Go back to the hostel if you need some time to relax, then wander up the boulevard to delightful Tivoli – a 19th-century pleasure garden that still retains its quirky charm as well as featuring some thrilling rides. If roller coasters and carousels are your thing, be sure to go for the multiride ticket (£10), but otherwise pay the lower entrance fee and wander among the lakes and fairground stalls. The Grøften restaurant here serves up filling traditional Danish food (£20).
Sunday
If you’re visiting Copenhagen in the warmer months, start your day with a swim in the harbour – the pool with its high diving board sits just across the water from the hostel. Then head round the corner to visit the Glyptoteket (free on Sundays) with its collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings, and Roman and Etruscan treasures. The glassed winter garden is lush with exotic plants and houses a terrific café. The brunch, a real Danish institution (£17), will set you up for the day.
You can’t leave without checking out the alternative side of Copenhagen. Christianshavn is a self-proclaimed ‘free city’ and home to independent galleries, attractively tumbledown wooden houses and cool cafés.
Total for two: £290
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Read the ba.com destination guide on Copenhagen.
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