Offal is a speciality at Ribouldingue
For a modern take on French cuisine bourgeoise, the way Ginette Mathiot (author of I Know How To Cook) taught it, head to Drouant (+33 1 42 65 15 16, drouant.com). The best deal is the lunchtime plat du jour (£17). Try the bouchée à la reine, a luscious mix of calf sweetbread, mushrooms and quenelles in a puff-pastry dome.
At casual bistro Le Mesturet (+33 1 42 97 40 68, lemesturet.com), comforting classics such as boudin noir (blood sausage), snail puffs and brandade de morue (salt cod and potato mash) are joined by lighter preparations of fish and grilled meat. About £26.
The entire menu at Ribouldingue (+33 1 46 33 98 80) focuses on offal, prepared here with such a delicate hand as to convert even the most squeamish eater: it is a haven for fans of tripe, lamb’s brains, pork snout and veal kidney. Three-course menu: £25.
Bistrot Paul Bert (+33 1 43 72 24 01) is the epitome of the classic bistro: ageless décor, a crowded room, friendly service and an unfussy French cuisine, from the heritage poultry in a sauce of yellow wine and morels, to the signature Paris-Brest (a ring of choux pastry filled with praline butter cream and sprinkled with sliced almonds and sugar). Three-course menu: £30.
The English version of I Know How to Cook (£24.95, Phaidon Press) by Ginette Mathiot is out now and has been updated by food experts such as Clotilde Dusoulier, writer of food blog Chocolate and Zucchini. Learn how to re-create Ginette Mathiot's light chocolate mousse.
