Refreshing school drinks, such as seasonal barley waters, including lemon, rhubarb and pear, are modish once more. The best place to try them is at Canteen in London (+44 (0)845 686 1122, canteen.co.uk), served with retro bites: think potted duck and piccalilli or a jammy slice of Victoria sponge.
The crop of all-day British brasseries have also picked up on the trend. Newest is BBR (bobbobricard.com) in London’s West End where enticing elevenses (from 11am) include Scotch pancakes, restorative beef tea and homemade griddled crumpets. Or for the best freshly baked Eccles cakes in town, head to St John Bread & Wine Spitalfields (+44 (0)20 7251 0848, stjohnrestaurant.co.uk).
But it’s not just a London thing. The ritual thrives in Rioja, where mid-morning is synonymous with almuerzo: a chunky slice of tortilla with chorizo, plus a glass of Rioja. Try it at Bar Simpatia in Logroño (+34 941 224 875). In northern Europe, Sweden’s own riposte to elevenses is fika – typically a milky coffee and a cinnamon bun. And the Cadier Bar at the Grand Hotel Stockholm (+46 08 679 35 00, grandhotel.se) is the most sophisticated spot to try it, while in Gothenburg, the Café Husaren (+46 (0) 31 13 63 78) has the best and largest cinnamon buns in town.
