Travel through rural Rioja and you’ll encounter a wide expanse of craggy land devoted to the region’s main industry – wine. Rows and rows of neat vineyards carve up the countryside like exotic corn-rowed hair. This region of northern Spain has, of course, long been known for the fine wines that spring from its stony yet productive soil. But cut through this mountain-framed corner of the Iberian peninsula and you’ll come across sleepy Logroño, the capital of this province. While tourists flock to the urban delights and cool restaurants of Barcelona and Madrid, the canny gastronome has discovered its flair for tapas.
A city of just 150,000 inhabitants it may be, but Logroño is the place to go if you prefer your dinner to come as sociable, sharing plates of chorizo and battered squid. Perched on a plateau 100 or so miles south of Bilbao, Logroño is bursting with an endless array of tiny eateries and bars that are lined up on the central Calle Laurel and the adjacent streets.
Las Cubanas (lascubanas.net) is an upmarket two-floor restaurant that offers quick, informal dining. Its signature dish – crackling-heavy pork on a slab of potato (a meal in itself) – has become a local favourite.
This is the key to Logroño’s appeal. Unlike the larger tapas bars of the major cities, the eateries here are more selective in range, often preferring to concentrate on a single dish – and preparing it to perfection. Thus, La Cueva del Champiñon (42 Calle San Juan) nails its colours entirely to champi – towers of hot mushrooms, loaded with salt and garlic, speared to a wad of bread. La Travesía (10 Travesía de San Juan) plays a similar trick with tortilla de patata, thick potato omelettes with chilli sauce.
Pulpería la Universidad (9 Calle Travesia del Laurel) puts its faith in pulpo a la gallega, chewy nuggets of octopus in paprika, just as La Aldea (1 Calle Travesia del Laurel) is a hot spot for other servings of seafood, particularly chipirones fritos, a light variety of squid cooked up in olive oil and flour. And while La Gota de Vino (14 Calle San Agustin) offers about 20 options, few leave its stylish confines without sampling the pimiento del piquillo, spicy red peppers stuffed with deep-fried cod.
The overall effect of this focused approach is a constant flow of people, making for an affable atmosphere. Nor will a night in Logroño wallop your wallet. Most tapas plates cost from €1 to €4, while the glasses of Rioja used to wash them down rarely cost more than €2. Whoever said good things come in small packages must have come from here.
The Tapas Fantasticas Festival takes place in London during 25-27 June (winesfromrioja.co.uk/tapasfantasticas). The Book of Tapas by Simone and Inés Ortega (£24.95, Phaidon) is out now. For recipes including Sardine Tortilla, Ham Croquettes, Ham and Quails’ Egg Tapa visit our news and blogs section.
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