Rosa Bonheur
The east of Paris is free from tourists — one great reason to go there. Add to that Rosa Bonheur, a lovely restaurant in the charming Parc des Buttes Chaumont. When the sun's shining, drink a glass of wine (organic varieties are available, perfect with chorizo) on the terrace while munching on snack-style tapas and salads. It's lighthearted, convivial and relaxed. ££
2 allée de la Cascade, 19th arrondissement (rosabonheur.fr)
Restaurant Chartier
Simple cuisine, reasonable prices and a mind-blowing Belle Epoque dining room are behind the success of Chartier, but mostly it's all about the atmosphere. It's crowded (you have to share tables, so you meet people) and the service is rare in its efficiency. Waiters in black waistcoats and white aprons bring the bill scrawled on napkins — so wonderful it is almost worth framing. Canteen-style dishes, such as grated carrots and cucumbers in cream, are the order of the day. £
7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre,
9th arrondissement (restaurant-chartier.com)
Barthélemy
Bread, wine and cheese are the three pillars of French fine dining. And the world of cheese is as varied as that of wine. Nicole Barthélemy is a reputed expert — her fromagerie is tiny in size but immense in terms of quality and variety. I fell in love with her light Fontainebleau cream cheese, wrapped in gauze resembling a veil. It goes so well with wild strawberries. A little sugar in the Fontainebleau crunches on the teeth, as it should. ££
51 rue de Grenelle, 7th arrondissement
Travel essentials
Avios points
Earn up to 2,500 BA Miles when you fly Club to Paris as a member of the Executive Club. Or redeem your
BA Miles – you only need 9,000 to fly to Paris. From 16 November, BA Miles will be renamed Avios points.
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