If the approach to Coworth Park is anything to go by my friend and I are in for a treat. The hotel's drive winds through a field of enchantingly pretty wild flowers and, on a cold rather bleak afternoon, this lifts our spirits no end. In fact, the grounds of this recently opened five-star hotel just outside Ascot, Berkshire (a new addition to the Dorchester Collection portfolio) are a major USP.
I also spy two perfectly manicured polo fields, sweeping lawns, a rose garden, fields dotted with wonderful old trees (the hotel sits in 240 acres of parkland) and a stream with a nearby road sign saying 'Caution Swans — Slow Down'. Mind you the only real traffic I see during our stay is the occasional golf buggy, used to ferry guests around, so I think the swans are pretty safe. It already feels like we are a million miles from London and yet, the hotel is a hop, skip and a jump from the M25 and a mere 40 minutes away by car from the city.
We pull up outside the main hotel, a Georgian mansion house almost sparkling in its whiteness. Inside, the decor is cool, contemporary and quirky. Although admittedly the main colour scheme of brown and orange wouldn't be my first choice, it works well with the look they are trying to achieve: 'a country house hotel for the 21st century' and it isn't overpowering. Instead, I'm struck by a combination of pleasing traditional touches (silky fabrics in muted tones and smoked oak floors) interspersed by the occasional clever, and at times eccentric, design touch.
In the lobby, for example, is a life-size tree made from copper, while in the drawing room, amongst the squashy sofas and huge floral displays, one-off playful twists include a table supported by three life-size stone swans. This modern flair continues in our bedroom, with unusual metal bedheads incorporating little statues of birds and a free-standing copper bath in the en-suite, which is surrounded by bullrushes. It sounds bizarre, but it works.
As it's getting dark we decide to explore the next day, opting instead for a drink in the hotel bar complete with a ceiling light which spells out the word LOVE and huge kitsch portraits of horses. Adjacent is the hotel's fine dining room where head chef John Campbell has devised an innovative British menu, which will keep gourmands and food philistines alike happy. Under a huge copper light installation of oak leaves and acorns, we dine on such dishes as lobster with squid, coconut and cabbage, and grouse with pickled apricot, trompette and kale — served by charming, efficient staff. My favourite, however, has to be a dessert of liquorice, carrot and coriander. All washed down with an excellent bottle of white.
A more informal dining option is the converted Barn restaurant, its shabby-chicness making it the ideal place for cottage pie or fishcakes with the children. Talking of young people, the hotel has a dedicated Kids' Concierge, Kids Club, Teenager Den and child-friendly activities aplenty (treasure hunts, nature trails, teddy bears picnics, football and so forth).
Which leaves grown-ups to enjoy the peace and quiet of the hotel's spa. So, after a good night's sleep in our extremely comfortable beds and a hearty breakfast, this is where we head in our golf buggy. Based in a separate building, the eco-spa is architecturally outstanding, partially submerged, as it is, in the landscape. The spa's roof doubles up as a garden growing thyme, lavender, chamomile, and other herbs, many of which are used in the spa's natural treatments (although a wide range of well-known luxury brand treatments is also available including Aromatherapy Associates and Carol Joy London).
The spa consists of two floors; the entrance is located on the upper floor along with the relaxation room, eight minimalist treatment rooms, and The Spatisserie, which serves light meals. Downstairs is a gym, sun terrace, steam room and the pool. My treatment is very pleasant; but, to be honest, I enjoy the relaxation room just as much. It is one of the nicest I have ever experienced, light and airy with huge sofas, thick carpet, floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking pretty gardens and endless glossy magazines.
For the more active there is oodles to do, especially for those passionate about all things equine. The hotel has it's own equestrian centre (with stabling for up to 40 horses) and an experienced team who can ride with both beginners and seasoned riders. There are the aforementioned polo fields to be played on if you like a chukka or two, not forgetting that the hotel is minutes away from Ascot, and hence the racing. For the less horsey, other activities include exploring the extensive grounds by foot, tennis, biking, golf (Wentworth is nearby), shooting, croquet...
It's with a heavy heart that we check out. Coworth Park is like a breath of fresh air, the perfect antidote to the bright lights of the city despite its proximity to London. If you want to get away from it even more, aside from the 30 bedrooms in the main building there are a further 40 housed in the grounds (both in the renovated stables and a selection of cottages), so you can really play at being country-dwellers. I know that I, for one, will be dusting down my wellies and returning again soon.
Coworth Park, Blacknest Road, Ascot, Berkshire, (01344 876 600; coworthpark.com) Double rooms from £235 including breakfast (£215 without).
