I arise from my giant, plump bed and walk over to the French windows to draw back the fine linen curtains. As the sun streams in, an equally warming sense of contentment breezes in, too. In the marina below, sunbeams burst off the water as the sea slopes around a string of glossy white yachts, bobbing lazily on. Above the rooftops, Signal Hill makes a dramatic viewpoint. This is a mid-summer morning, Cape Grace-style.
One of South Africa’s best-known five-star hotels, Cape Grace is a pebble’s throw away from Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront area and nestles in its own quay. And, despite the fact that the host country of the 2010 World Cup has welcomed a swathe of swanky hotels recently, Cape Grace, fresh from its recent multi-million makeover, remains one of its finest.
Taking inspiration from the city’s history as an international trading port in the 17th century, the hotel’s recent refurbishment pays fond homage to its traditional colonial-style roots but completely pushes the boat out to bring that story up to date. Elegant drapes and printed soft furnishings provide the sumptuous backdrop for quirky antique touches in the lobby. Bespoke chandeliers hung with old china teacups add glamour along the stairwells. Giant weathered oak trunks adorned with Delft-style ceramic urns give the library a homely warmth. A sprinkling of local contemporary craft pieces completes the enjoyably eccentric picture.
And it all adds to the genuine welcome that you get at Cape Grace. Staff are cheerful and helpful, and you feel that your every whim can be catered for without the pomp this might suggest. Rooms are spacious and smart — each is uniquely designed — and ideally suited to lounging in after a day’s shopping in town. The dressing area is well considered and the marble bathrooms are given a unique feel with folk-art touches.
Downstairs, the Signal restaurant is a little formal but the food is good and, this being South Africa, the wine list is pretty fine, too. Further below, at quayside level, the Bascule Whisky & Wine bar spills out on to the Waterfront and buzzes all day as chic business-types and well-heeled shoppers gather to share gossip. The bar offers the same menu as the restaurant upstairs, so Bascule also makes for a pleasant lunch or casual dinner spot.
Nestled on the rooftop, the spa is small, but treatments are expertly carried out and I got the best pedicure I’ve ever had here. Go up there early morning or late afternoon with a good book and just relax and enjoy the sun.
Cape Grace has long been a popular destination for British families jetting to the South African capital for a touch of winter sun, but the crowd it attracts is as eclectic as the hotel itself. If you are looking for the latest in minimalist boutique-hotel chic, then Cape Grace is probably not for you. But, if you like the idea of laid-back luxury laced with character and charm, then make Cape Grace your first — and last — port of call.
West Quay Road, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town, South Africa (+27 21 410 7100; capegrace.com). Luxury rooms from SA $616 per room per night based on two people sharing on a bed-and-breakfast basis.