The lowdown:
Once infamous for its seedy crime-ridden docklands (where Shirley Bassey was born above a brothel), Cardiff's Tiger Bay has been undergoing a transformation since the 1990s. As part of the leisure development this newly branded Cardiff Bay waterfront encouraged, at the turn of the millennium the glossy St David's Hotel was completed; it was one of Wales' first five-star hotels. Close to the Welsh Assembly's Senedd building and Wales Millennium Centre, it is a popular choice for business travellers (and, staff hint, sports and music stars appearing in the city).
St David's is physically and stylistically set apart from Cardiff's bustling city centre hotels; each room has floor-to-ceiling windows facing the water and all from the second floor up have balconies, with the spacious white lobby and corridors sitting behind them in a horseshoe shape. As well as creating a light, modern atmosphere, this titanic glass structure and its muted interior continue the aquatic theme of the hotel's biggest draw — its Marine Spa. There is something innately calming about being surrounded by water, and those who splash out on the suites at the very top and back of the hotel will be soothed by 180-degree views of the waves.
I stayed in the Castell Carew suite, where I found solitude suited the St David's. Staff dealt helpfully with requests but largely left me to enjoy my peace and privacy. Even approaching Christmas, the hotel had little festive gaudiness, and the simple, cosy Tempus restaurant and bar felt comfortably informal, offering both fine dining and a gastro-pub bar menu.
A designated lift from all floors to the spa encourages guests to pad around in robe and slippers and the full-body massage I enjoyed in the ESPA treatment rooms was thorough and relaxing. I spent the hour prior to checkout sitting on my suite's comfy armchair, sipping coffee and watching the sun glinting off the water — perfect for easing into a hard day's shopping.
The good:
The modern décor.
Sea-view balconies in both rooms and restaurant.
Watching the sunrise over the water from the spa's indulgent Jacuzzi beds.
The not-so-good:
The streets behind Cardiff Bay remain somewhat disused and depressing. A swift taxi ride from Cardiff Central station neatly avoids these, but the Mermaid Quay waterfront is the only place to wander close by.
The verdict:
A luxurious base for shopping and exploring in a charismatic city — wonderful for a solo break.
Book it:
Double rooms from £109.
The St David's Hotel and Spa, Havannah Street, Cardiff, CF10 5SD (+44 (0)2920 454 045; thestdavidshotel.com).
