Endsleigh was commissioned in 1810 by Georgina, Duchess of Bedford, the beautiful, charismatic and rather naughty wife of one of the richest men in England. She was a stalwart of Regency high society (credited with the invention of afternoon tea), had a long-standing affair with the dashing young Edwin Landseer and was an equally passionate lover of the great outdoors.
Georgina had Sir Jeffry Wyattville build Endsleigh on the edge of Dartmoor for her family’s annual use as a shooting and fishing lodge. Remarkably, this picturesque cottage orné has only been open for business as a hotel since 2005, despite the fact that the building celebrates its bicentenary next year.
Owned by Olga Polizzi and run by her Hotel Inspector daughter Alex, Endsleigh still resonates with Regency eloquence. A besmocked staff member called Caleb (naturally) led us up oak stairs, along slightly threadbare hall runners, past ancient fire hoses, to one of 16 comfortable rooms, restored by Polizzi mère with antique furniture and fittings in the spirit of the past. The loveliest room is probably number 8, with a double balcony overlooking the terrace, lawn, woodland and Tamar river and beyond into Cornwall.
From book-walled library to oak-clad dining room, there is a bees-waxy whiff of decayed grandeur about Endsleigh, which adds to its period charm. You won’t find WiFi or mini bars or vast plasma screens here. The atmosphere is more redolent of Jane Austen, inclining one to take a turn about the room or stride out on bracing country walks.
Perhaps a small disappointment is the original dining room, complete with rows of family crests, which is treated with the reverence of a library by whispering guests. And the good, locally sourced food is fussily over presented, where surely this sort of rustic setting calls for altogether more robust platefuls, particularly after a day of bracing outdoor pursuits.
For Endsleigh is really all about its 108 acres of gardens and woodland. The garden, created by Humphry Repton and, like the house, Grade I listed, is the last word in bucolic abandon, bursting with statuary, follies, grottos, waterfalls and seats in unexpected nooks and crannies for secret trysts. Grab a map and a picnic provided by the kitchen, rustle up a significant other and take off on a self-guided tour of the impossibly romantic grounds, replete with sounding cataracts worthy of Wordsworth and the occasional otter sighting.
There’s plenty to enjoy, from a gentle stroll through the rose arbour to lolling on the expansive terrace and lawn, breathing in views of the watercolour landscape and arboretum. Heartier guests might enjoy falconry lessons, flying kites, fishing on the Tamar or croquet on the lawn. Children and dogs are welcome, for Endsleigh remains the stuff of adventures for all ages. The Duchess would surely have approved.
Hotel Endsleigh,
Milton Abbot,
Tavistock,
Devon
PL19 0PQ, 01822 870 000, hotelendsleigh.com
