The curve of the white building against a clear blue sky could easily convince you that Lifehouse isn't in the Essex countryside, but is some glamorous spa in California. Not that there is anything wrong with this part of Essex — in fact, they have bicycles to borrow, so you can cycle the few miles to Frinton, a pretty seaside town with a long row of ice-cream-coloured beach huts. We spent an hour or two exploring, but really, during a weekend at Lifehouse, chances are you wouldn't want to leave.
We arrived early on Saturday afternoon and were shown to our room, tastefully decorated in restful neutrals, overlooking the expanse of gardens and the countryside beyond, with one of the most comfortable beds I've ever slept in and a — fun, but unnecessary — remote-controlled shower. This is also the only hotel I've ever stayed in which provides hair straighteners in the rooms (this is glamorous Essex, remember). Best of all, we were given bathrobes and slippers and told that it was perfectly acceptable — encouraged, even — to wander around the hotel in these for the duration of our stay. This is my sort of weekend.
Lifehouse, which opened late last year, stands on what used to be Thorpe Hall, set in beautiful historic gardens that are well worth taking a turn around. There isn't much left of the original mansion now — only the stable block and an old wall in the garden remain. The new building is ultra-modern — great sweeps of curved walls and light space — but somehow it is sympathetic to its setting. It is minimalist, with carefully chosen furniture and beautiful flower arrangements, without being cold. A spiral staircase takes you to the "hub", the spa reception. From there, you sit in the café area, which has a lovely balcony, until your therapist collects you.
Painted with restful dark walls, the treatment rooms are among the best I've seen. I had a facial, which was relaxing rather than a vigorous cleanse. The spa virgin had a massage — his first ever, he probably made a mistake in asking his therapist to go easy on him because he said it could have been a bit firmer. The following morning, we had Lifehouse's signature treatment, the Oriental Bathing Experience together — it began with a foot massage and then over nearly two hours we were led into different, beautiful rooms for bathing, scrubbing, a hot stone and oil massage, and finally, a blissful doze. As a purpose-built spa with a hotel, rather than hotel with a spa, there are a huge range of treatments available — book everything you want to before you get there though (when I tried to book a pedicure on arrival, there were no appointments left).
Dinner is a surprisingly dressy occasion. Groups of young women who had been shuffling around in bathrobes and slippers all day suddenly appeared in heels and maxidresses (and those straighteners had obviously come in handy). But the restaurant is relaxed enough that we didn't feel out of place in jeans. The emphasis at Lifehouse seems to be on relaxation and pampering, rather than discipline — this is undoubtedly a good thing. It also means that the dinner menu is imaginative and ambitious with Heston Blumenthal aspirations — I had carrot and absinthe terrine (actually, I thought that was a little too ambitious), followed by trout, which came with a roasted cauliflower puree and a quirky tin of "pomegranate caviar" — tiny jelly spheres — which was delightful.
With a beautiful, tranquil building set in glorious grounds, and fantastic staff that seem genuinely happy to be there, Lifehouse is a brilliant example of how to run a contemporary spa hotel. The worst part? Having to get changed out of our bathrobes and slippers and head back into the real world.
Lifehouse Country Spa Resort, Frinton Road, Thorpe-Le-Soken, Essex CO16 OJD (01255 860050; lifehouse.co.uk). Room rates start from £145, for single occupancy, per room per night.
