The Lake District is one of the jewels in England's crown, famous for its undulating beauty and watery charms. Perched on the very southern tip of Lake Windermere, The Swan Hotel is poised to take full advantage of these qualities. It's an affordable, family-friendly pub with rooms and a spa. Renovated from an 18th century coaching inn, the waterside setting is tranquil and calm, with enough of a garden to enjoy a run around and a delightful bridge.
As a Lake District virgin, I was surprised not to see more, er, lakes, but the friendly receptionist assured me that it was all a walk away. We decided to give that a miss until the next day.
Stylish accommodation can be limited in this area (chintz explosion is still en vogue here). But The Swan is well designed, offering a contemporary interior scheme against the backdrop of its old beams, and it works really nicely. Think feature walls with bold and colourful wallpaper (the manager's shirts echo this theme!) and lots of squishy sofas and chairs in velvet and corduroy. The overall effect is friendly and relaxed — two things that the staff also does very well. In fact, I'm not sure I've ever been somewhere so friendly, and what's more, this welcoming attitude felt completely genuine.
The approach to our room felt less pleasing, with compulsory piped music at too low a volume. Why? Either turn it off or turn it up. The bedroom itself was compact but considered, with everything you might need such as robes and slippers, as well as things you probably don't, but are always nice to have (biscuits). The rooms are not exactly inspirational, but who goes to the Lakes to sit in their room? The hotel has plenty to keep children busy and the pool is a bonus for families.
I was more interested in the spa. It's a simple affair with a decent list of treatments, and charming therapists. Massages are the most popular option as you might imagine, but I went for my first ever body wrap — and came out feeling smoother than a chamois leather, and possibly a couple of pounds lighter, too.
The Swan is near the town of Newby Bridge, but without a car you're best to stay put in the evening and enjoy the restaurant. I'll be honest: I started feeling sceptical of the food when a complimentary breadbasket arrived. I've nothing against a breadbasket, mind, but this one consisted of rolls that were stale or cheap, or both. So far, not good. Then the starters rolled out and I was converted. Crab and coriander tian with Morecambe Bay shrimp and citrus dressing was not only delicate and zesty, but a bargain at £6.95. A shared main of local rack of lamb was as good as I've ever eaten, accompanied by a rich rosemary jus and some buttery peas à la Francaise. The manager recommended a delicious bottle of wine, which arrived decanted into an elegant carafe. No half measures here. After some research, I discovered that the young head chef is fresh from Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons and it all began to make sense.
With a hike in the diary, we thought it sensible to have the cheesecake — and the cheese for pudding. Failure to prepare is to prepare to fail, as they say. Up early the next day, we let reception pick out a good rambling route, and set off. Ten thirsty miles later, through valley and vale, across field and fell, and a lot of up hill, we found a pub. Either we were given a dodgy map or we got lost. In any case, there really isn't much else around, so you'll have to work hard for a pint in these parts. Or better still, just make sure that every route leads you back to The Swan.
The Swan Hotel & Spa, Newby Bridge, Cumbria LA12 8NB (+44 015395 31681; swanhotel.com). Room rates start from £119 per night per room.
