Spas may be awash with fluffy white robes, flickering candles and piped whale song but, in my experience, the treatments can disappoint. Sure they're relaxing, in the same way a hot bath is after a long day in the office, but the benefits are often as good as forgotten 24 hours later. Not so at Ushvani. This South East Asian spa, tucked away in the heart of Chelsea, adeptly combines luxurious pampering with truly impressive holistic treatments — the results of my visit remained with me for several days.
On entering Ushvani the first thing you notice is the sweeping staircase, which dominates the reception. In fact, many of the original Edwardian features of this Grade II listed townhouse are in evidence, from the dark wooden panelling to the huge shuttered windows. Throw into the mix hand-painted silk hangings, an abundance of jewel coloured fabrics, intricate carvings and a giant fish tank (even the fish look zen), and the result is one of the most elegant spas I've ever seen.
As I admire the decor, my shoes are whisked away and I'm given a warm flannel to wipe away the grime of London. Guests are encouraged to arrive 45 minutes prior to their treatment to enjoy the facilities, which take place on the lower ground floor (on the top floor is the elegant Sentosa Studio for Pilates, yoga and baby massage). There's a hydro-therapeutic spa pool, steam room and experience shower. I opt to wallow in the deliciously warm spa pool, enjoying the peace and quiet; although I'm told the spa is busy, because the treatments are staggered I don't see one other guest throughout my visit.
My therapist Victoria collects me from the relaxation room — thoughtfully kept at a lower temperature than the rest of the spa to cool guests down after their steam room experiences — and shows me to one of the five treatment rooms. We have a consultation to discover what I am looking for from my 90 minutes. I explain I'm desperate for some relief from sleepless nights (new baby) and rock-hard shoulders from hunching over a pram. As each treatment is tailor-made to guests' requirements, Victoria suggests that she combines Balinese massage (a deep tissue massage, which promises to restore vitality and release tension) with some Malay massage (a more gentle treatment for clients who require calming and destressing). I tell her I hate having my legs or stomach massaged and she is quite happy to concentrate on other areas.
The therapists are all rigorously trained and it shows. Victoria sets to work using hibiscus and coconut oil (the spa has its own range of natural products, all of which are available to buy). She is incredibly strong and the Balinese part of the massage is, at times, reasonably painful. When I wince slightly, Victoria explains that she has come across a particularly stubborn build-up of lactic acid. The Malay massage is wonderfully relaxing — the head and foot massage is unbelievably comforting — and after an hour and a half's combination of the two, I immediately notice a difference.
I'd walked into the spa hunched, tense and with shoulder twinges. On leaving I feel about a foot taller. It's like my muscles have been given a new lease of life. The tension in my back area has disappeared and, where once I could hardly look over my left shoulder without grimacing, I've become almost owl-like in my ability to turn my head. After a cup of hibiscus flower tea and some crystallised watermelon, to give the blood sugar levels a boost, in the spa's tearoom I almost float home. The acid test: three days later and I still feel looser in the upper back and shoulder area and, so far, no twinges. Plus I've been sleeping better. Ushvani has come up trumps. I highly recommend you visit...
Ushvani, 1 Cadogan Gardens, Knightbridge, London SW3 2RJ (020 7730 2888; ushvani.com). A 90-minute massage costs £180.
