Head south out of Cancún, Mexico’s most boisterous city, and you’ll be hit by rows of huge all-inclusive hotel complexes. Their mirrored facades look unblinkingly down on the great Cancún-Chetumal Highway, but as the bawdy tourist town becomes a distant memory, the scenery is suddenly more seductive. As you approach Playa del Carmen – once a fishing village and now a buzzy little town – the coastline becomes outstandingly beautiful. You are on the Riviera Maya, the fastest growing luxury destination in the world.
Four years ago, this 180km stretch of coast on Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula in the state of Quintana Roo – which reaches from Cancún to the ancient ruins of Tulum – was known for its amazing unspoilt dive spots, mangrove swamps, hippy hang-outs and, well, not much else. Then in 2006, the ambitious eco-resort Mayakoba was launched. This $1.5 billion project encapsulates four luxury hotel brands – Fairmont, Rosewood, Viceroy and Banyan Tree – located on nearly six miles of freshwater lagoons leading out to the Caribbean Sea. Its selling point is not only the luxury benefits but also its top-rate eco credentials. And all this has encouraged other top-end brands – such as Orient-Express’s Maroma and InterContinental’s Paraiso de la Bonita – to also lay their foundations on the Riviera.
These top-end design savvy hotels with a conscience have set the tone for the area, and the latest arrival is Mandarin Oriental Riviera Maya. As well as being a member of the World Heritage Alliance, who focus on preserving environmental landmarks, it is also the first project in Latin America to include 95 per cent of native plants in its concept and design. Built on 36 acres, the resort features protected mangroves, lagoons, streams and a stunning cenote, a deep, freshwater reservoir sacred to the ancient Mayan. At the mile-long property, horticulturalists carefully replanted the original vegetation found on the site and the result is an amazing hideaway – part beach, part jungle, teaming with exotic birds and wildlife.
Guests stay in white, limestone-clad bungalows with views over the waterways or the sparkling ocean. Added touches include garden bathtubs or rooftop plunge pools, and double rainforest showers. And forget refried beans: the food here is aimed at international palettes, from sushi at the Ceviche Cha Cha Cha restaurant to Latino-Asiatica cuisine in Ambar (starters include cold ‘liquid bread and tomato’ in a martini glass). And, of course, there’s the state-of-the-art spa, which offers treatments based on Mayan traditions. Not for the faint-hearted is the Temazcal: guests can experience a ‘rebirthing’ ritual, which takes place in a baking hot clay dome and is led by a shaman. For those who don’t, ahem, find their inner self, they might have more luck with a visit to one of the nearby ruins, Tulum, Chichén Itzá and Coba, which are said to have spiritual qualities, and are perfectly preserved, hopefully like this stretch of coast for years to come.
READER OFFER Stay seven nights for the price of six at the Mandarin Oriental Riviera Maya from £2,085 per person for a Deluxe Cenote Room, including British Airways flights and private transfers. Valid until 31 October 2008. To book, contact Seasons in Style +44 (0)1244 202 000, seasonsinstyle.com.