Whenever I visit New York, I always take the same book: F. Scott Fitzgerald's The Great Gatsby. It's as if I am hoping it will be a talisman, transporting me to the glamourous New York of my dreams. Checking into the Carlton Hotel, I could indeed have been living the American dream of the roaring twenties.
Newly-revamped in the Murray Hill district, the Carlton was formerly known as the Hotel Seville, (designed by the 'Beaux Arts' architect Henry Allen Jacobs it opened in 1904). It recently underwent a multi-million dollar transformation in the talented hands of designer David Rockwell. Located in Midtown Manhattan near the Empire State building, and just steps away from Tin Pan Alley, (and the historic tunes created there) the Carlton is a modern classic. The centerpiece of the lobby is a towering waterfall, two stories high. Upstairs, chic grey walls framed with a white trim graced the narrow hallway, and creating a sense of excitement that makes you feel like you have been thrust into a fabulous Hitchcock film starring Grace Kelly, or Ingrid Bergman. The rooms are elegant, striking a perfect chord between historic and modern glamour.
Bar Millesime is a true gentleman's bar with dark wood paneling, leather club seating, and a superb collection of premium spirits lining the back wall. Cocktail hour starts at 4.30pm and the bartender, Jack Fitzgerald Kennedy (from the north-west coast of Ireland), seemingly knows the name of all his patrons, many of them local regulars, and fellow Irishmen. The bar, salvaged by the architect, dates from 1912 and has quite a history: among others, Frank Sinatra used to drink and smoke here.
The bar has a variety of signature cocktails, including Night and Day, a modern twist on the classic Manhattan, named after the famous Cole Porter tune created just steps away in Tin Pan Alley. If you have a penchant for gin, Jack has two of the best premium brands (Plymouth Gin produced at the Black Friar's Distillery in Plymouth, England since 1793 and Hayman's Old Town Gin, also English and based on gin recipes popular in the 18th century). He sets me up with a French 75 a vintage cocktail named for a French WW1 artillery cannon and popularized at the famed NYC Stork Club. Featuring Hayman's, Raventos sparkling wine, fresh squeezed lemon and sugar, it was delightful with just the right amount of sweetness. Jay Gatsby would have loved it.
Just off the bar is the lounge area, Salon Millesime, a beautiful open space with high-vaulted ceilings, and a grand piano in the center of the room where Miles Dalto, (the son of legendary jazz pianist Jorge Dalto) lights up the room with original renditions of legendary tunes often accompanied by DJ. While upstairs the newly opened French brasserie, Millesemie, headed by the two Michelin-starred chef Laurent Mannique, serves classic signature seafood dishes include the Lobster Pot au Feu and Rockfeller oysters, updated with a savory, smoky sauce. Seated in the lounge, my starter of spiced crispy bacon was served English-style in a newspaper-lined Pilsner glass, while my tuna tartare with Moroccan spices, dates and almonds was impeccable. The food was delicious, the presentation simple, and the plates are perfect for sharing. For dessert, don't miss the beignets (pastry made from deep-fried dough) with three sauces, and the delightful pot de crème of espresso and caramel.
When you're not eating or drinking, the sites are easily taken in from here. For a quintessential local NYC day, catch a pick-up basketball game at the legendary 'Cage; at 4th and 6th, visit the Strand bookstore or grab an espresso at Café Figaro or Café Reggio in Greenwich Village, well-known haunts of Jack Kerouac and William Burroughs. When you head back to the hotel walk along 6th Street (the Avenue of the Americas) perusing the used book and record stands along the way. I'm sure if Jay Gatsby were here, he would be doing exactly the same.
The Carlton Hotel, 88 Madison Avenue, New York (+ 1 (212) 532-4100; carltonhotelny.com).
