Back in 1910, Hotel Lutetia was the first Art Deco hotel in Paris and it quickly became a favourite with the beau monde: Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso were both guests, while Yves Saint Laurent's lover Pierre Bergé liked it so much he moved in. One hundred years later, it still has a loyal following of famous names — Carla Bruni was a regular before she became Madame Sarkozy, and Gérard Depardieu has been spotted having a discreet rendevous.
As the grande dame of the Left Bank marks its centenary with a smart new refurbishment and plans for a year of celebrations. You feel every inch a Parisian — well, I do — as soon as you walk through the famous front doors. The Art Deco theme continues inside with a warm décor of red and gold interiors and none of the unnecessary bling that some luxury hotels go for.
Its 170 rooms and 60 suites have period furnishings and marble bathrooms with Annick Goutal goodies — and, if you're lucky, a high-tech toilet with combined bidet and dryer. The Lutetia suite has its own hammam, the Literary suite has a library and the Eiffel suite has a view of... In fact all the themed suites look out on to Paris's iconic tower as well as the shopping landmark Le Bon Marché, which Gustave Eiffel also had a hand in.
But the Lutetia's heart is in its art — from the many pieces donated by its artist clientele to the Philippe Hiquily-designed bronze humidor in the smoking room. Its showstopper is the Arman suite — yours for £4,500 a night — which was created by the late artist and furnished with his quirky pieces. The sofa is backed with violin cases, the bed's headboard is formed like a guitar and the chairs are cello-shaped. If you can't afford to shell out for the Arman suite (that'll be most of us then) ask the hotel for a private viewing. And if your cultural palate still isn't satisfied, continue the art tour at the mighty Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay and Musée Rodin — all within a few minutes' walk of the hotel.
Back at the hotel, I freshen up at the spa — with a calming Arabic tea and the frequent flyer massage — head to the bar for a cheeky kir royale — and I'm all set for dinner. Dining is a Michelin-starred affair presided over by head chef Philippe Renard, while Sonia Rykiel, one of the many fashion gurus adding hotel couture to their portfolios, has redesigned the decor. Le Paris is decked out like a luxury ocean liner but I chose the Brasserie — all shiny chrome surfaces and cosy leather booths — not least for its vegetarian menu, a rare find in a French restaurant.
And it started so well with the creamy pumpkin soup that tasted too heavenly to be healthy. Then came the entrée... or rather a collection of side dishes: a tiny platter of six bowls, two each of potato mash, boiled chicory and silky puy lentils. And that was it. From a Michelin-starred chef. Thankfully the service was utterly charming and that strange dish was soon forgotten as the dessert arrived. The Sonia Rykiel chocolate cake was tempting but a quick glance at the super-slim Parisians nearby kept my greedy appetite in check. Instead the light-as-a-feather fruit cocktail topped with iced mango shavings was fresh and flavoursome. The Centennial Menu will keep hard-core carnivores happy with the likes of Basque dried sausage and pressed Landes duck foie gras — for a very reasonable £90 for two. And if you want to join in the 100-year celebrations, plan your visit to catch one of the many concerts and exhibitions running until December. Bon anniversaire!
Hotel Lutetia, 45 boulevard Raspail, 75006 Paris (+33 (0) 1 49 54 46 46; lutetia-paris.com). Doubles from £180, or take advantage of the 100 Years Offer Centennial special, stay three nights and receive a £90 gift voucher to spend anywhere within the hotel.
