I have high hopes for my stay at Muse, the former Saint Tropez mill house that is now a luxury design hotel. The chic retreat has been the talk of the French Riviera ever since it opened its doors and quite frankly, I'm desperate to see what all the fuss is about. I mean Karl Lagerfeld wouldn't have hosted the Chanel 2010/11 Cruise Collection here for nothing, surely?
As my husband and I pull up outside the gated entrance tucked away on a leafy road just outside of Saint Tropez, the vibe feels more private villa than flashy hotel. Lush gardens designed by landscape architect Sophie Agata Ambroise surround us. And a handsome Frenchman rushes over to escort us to a discreet raw stone reception area before going to collect our bags from the car.
There are 15 suites in the hotel, all of which pay homage to a French star, from Edith Piaf to Catherine Deneuve. Our 80-square-metre Gala suite is spectacular. Natural stone floors, beige mamarino wall finishes and high quality furniture give the impression of absolute luxury. There's a spacious living and kitchen area with huge sliding doors that open onto a private garden and plunge pool. And there are enough stylish coffee table books lying around the place to open a small bookshop.
In the bathroom, a walk-in shower and the biggest bathtub I've ever laid eyes on fills me with glee — especially when accompanied by an abundance of Hermès products. We're both impressed by the array of mod cons at our disposal. Loewe Plasma TV and PlayStation 3 aside, we're even presented with an iPhone and iPad for the length of our stay — it doesn't get better than this.
Once over our initial excitement, we venture out. Well, I say out, but actually, we only make it as far as Muse's glistening 100-metre sunken pool. We pitch up on huge loungers that are partially submerged in the shallow water's edges. A "sun butler" comes over proffering a tray of protective lotions. We're offered lavish cocktails (or detox juices if we prefer) and on-the-spot massages or manicures if we so wish. Is there anything this hotel hasn't thought of, I wonder?
Not likely. There's even an Orianne Collins concept store situated at the other side of the pool should we need an impromptu shopping fix. Word of warning though: this shop is expensive. With carefully selected luxury brands and limited edition fashion, beauty and accessory finds, it's impossible not to fall in love with something (for me it's the Melissa Odabash swimwear, for my husband it's the DualTow watches).
Later that evening we dine at the hotel restaurant M, where Executive Chef Nicolas Le Toumelin, known for his seafood specialities, and renowned truffle restaurateur Clement Bruno, create dishes that are inspired by the slow food philosophy. I go for salt-crusted sea bass with thyme, my husband for Scottish beef fillet. Both are delicious.
The next day we take a short five-minute drive to Pampelonne beach, home to some of Saint Tropez's most prestigious beach clubs. We could have travelled here using the private Bentley shuttle laid on by the hotel or indeed on one of the cream Brooks bicycles lined up outside the reception area. We lunch at Le Club 55 and afterwards head up shore to Moorea Beach where we enjoy a bottle of ice-cold rosé while taking in the turquoise sea directly in front of us and the mega yachts in the foreground.
Back at the hotel, there's just enough time to catch the last of the sun up by the petanque court (which incidentally, transforms into an open-air cinema at night) before heading to the suite for a well-earned nap.
Reflecting on our stay, we're agreed Muse is the ultimate romantic hideaway, going way beyond its five-star status. The initial idea, according to the hotel's co-manager Adrian Jossa, was to "build the equivalent of a Louis Vuitton in the French hotel industry". Well, mission accomplished. Muse really is one of the chicest retreats on the Cote D'Azur.
Muse, Route des Marres, Ramatuelle 83350, France (+33 04 94430440; muse-hotels.com). Room rates start from £296 per room per night.
