I must admit I had reservations about Koh Samui, one of southern Thailand's best-known and biggest islands that has long been visited by backpackers en-route to 'full moon' parties anad palm-fringed white sands. Yet, with time to explore, I witnessed a traditional bird singing competition, a charmingly eccentric custom in which wooden cages are lined up in the open air and their feathered occupants are judged on their tunes — reminding me that Samui still has its fair share of hidden gems.
Look beyond the tourist trail, and you will find pockets of natural seclusion that feel a world away from the bright lights and busy beaches — one such being the Six Senses Samui resort. Tucked away on the northern tip of the island, it feels utterly secluded from the outside world and is set in its own 20 acres of lush vegetation on a private peninsular.
As you arrive via winding dirt roads, to be welcomed with fresh lemongrass-scented towels and taken down leafy pathways to a villa hidden in the trees, it feels like you're stepping into an enchanted idyll. And believe me, you won't want to look back.
Given its verdancy it's surprising that, until six years ago, the resort was no more than a bare rocky outcrop. Bravely and thoughtfully designed by award-winning Thai architect Amata Lupaiboon, the headland has been gradually cultivated with indigenous vegetation, dotted with thatched wooden villas that are more Thai fishing village than high-end development.
The resort is the epitome of barefoot luxury, with lemongrass meadows, hidden terraces leading down to golden sands and the ultimate in infinity pools encased in weathered teak. The attention to rustic detail is impressive - bamboo posts conceal poolside showers, recycled railway sleepers double as steps; even the bins are covered discreetly in wood. Indeed, sustainability underpins the resort, from the natural lemongrass mosquito spray, to the hotel's own organic garden and the fresh produce sourced daily from the local market.
The 66 villas are blissfully romantic, with floor-to-ceiling windows that look out over the bay (best viewed from the comfort of your rustic four-poster bed, huge sunken bath or private infinity pool outside). You will soon find your own indulgently laid-back routine, with each day punctuated with a series of taxing choices. A full Thai breakfast with fresh pineapple juice or made-to-order eggs and blueberry pancakes? Thai cooking class or batik painting lessons? Beachside yoga session, or Thai massage al fresco?
The resort spa deserves at least a few mornings of your time. Individual treatment huts are perched among the trees, offering dreamy views over the ocean to the Mu Ko Ang Thong Marine Park. There's an impressive choice of traditional natural therapies that begin with a rose-water foot soak and end with an ice-cold fruit tea.
The legendary Six Senses service lives up to the rumours, with five staff members to every villa. Attentive and above all discreet (they will be hands-off if privacy is all you demand), the word 'no' seems not to be in the staff's vocabulary. If you want a private candle-lit dinner or fresh soya milk in your mini-fridge, any request is granted with the minimum of fuss.
Each villa has its very own butler, which for the uninitiated can at first seem a little OTT. However, it's surprising how easy delegating becomes, whether it be unpacking bags, tracking down traditional mosquito bite remedies or calling up the best tailor in town, by the end of your stay you'll be devising ways to smuggle your butler home.
The resort has a reputation for the serving the best food on the island and deservedly so. At Dining on the Rocks, you can sample experimental, and delicious, haute cuisine perched atop terraced decks of teak and bamboo, jutting dramatically over the headland with to-die-for views of the Gulf of Siam.
You could be forgiven for not leaving this little slice of heaven, but the lush green islands on the horizon might tempt you out for a snorkelling boat trip, or hire a Jeep and explore the Samui's jungle highlands and Buddhist temples. Who knows? You may even find some birdsong of your own — just rest assured that the sweetest song of all lies back at your newfound laid-back luxury home.
Six Senses Samui, 9/10 Moo 5, Baan Plai Laem, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320, Thailand (+66 (0) 77 245 678; sixsenses.com/SixSensesSamui). Room rates start from £430 per night per room, including breakfast.
