A maze of sandy walkways flanked by lush greenery, the Zeavola is a haven amongst the overcrowded chaos of Koh Phi Phi, Thailand. Beautiful wooden villas are dotted about the ten-acre tropical gardens, each one hidden behind its own gate and featuring a spacious veranda with reclining cushions and al fresco mini-bar for ultimate lounging.
All this is a huge relief having been confronted by back-to-back sun loungers and stalls of touristy trinkets when descending the ferry at Ton Sai Port. Koh Phi Phi has fast gained a reputation for being one of the more spoilt islands of Thailand. Fortunately we're whisked away on a private long-tail boat that takes us to the Northern tip, where beauty is still in tact, and balance is restored.
Villas (of which there are four categories, from modest garden villas to the extremely lavish villas with private pools) are all warm teak and muslin-draped four-poster beds and feature large stone bathrooms. Care has been taken over the design; details such as the hand-carved butterfly chair and dressing table in the bathroom, ceramic amenity pots and an enormous red stone sink are beautiful touches. Mod-cons are hidden away in traditional Thai furniture. There's superior attention to detail in the service too; throughout our stay little gifts appear each time we leave the villa; a framed photo of our arrival on the first night, an embroidered phone case and a coconut body scrub on the second. It makes us feel special.
They are definitely playing on the romantic vibe at Zeavola. You do feel a bit of a fraud if you're not on your honeymoon. Newlyweds do make up the majority of the guests. But it's not that you come across entwined couples on every corner, just that it would be a very appropriate place to be blissfully in love. In actual fact the wonderful thing about Zeavola is that it's so peaceful you feel like you could be the only ones there most of the time.
A short wander to the beach reveals a classy setting for a spot of sun lounging. Huge beanbags make a gloriously comfortable change to sun loungers. It's not a private beach, which may disappoint some. There are about four other resorts along the shoreline but it feels fairly exclusive. The frequent boat activity and engine noise around the bay is a bit tedious but have a few pina coladas ferried to your beanbag by the willing beach hosts and you soon forget about it. Armani even kindly sent one of their male models to wander in and out of the water in those teeny tiny white 'pants' during our afternoon on the beach. On a break from shooting a commercial nearby, he'd been put up at the Zeavola; how glam. I can't guarantee this service comes with every booking.
There's also a saltwater pool, sans Armani model, in a shady spot for those looking for respite from sun and sand. And a traditional Thai spa sits up the hillside; a rustic wooden building with large and very dark treatment rooms that immediately trigger your snooze button. I tried the signature Phi Phi Lomi massage, a rather vigorous affair involving 60 minutes of Polynesian Lomi Lomi & Thai massage — that's stretching, long-stroking massage and rhythmic dance moves over the body by way of explanation. However intimidating it may sound, it succeeded in relieving muscles tight from city-living and was blissful. I left the spa in a state of calm I hadn't felt in a long time.
For dining Tacada is set right on the beach and features traditional Thai cuisine alongside more westernised dishes. In the evening they pull the tables out onto the sand and drench the restaurant in candlelight, making for a truly romantic setting (think honeymooners again). Baxil is the more formal option and serves solely Thai dishes. And of course you can opt out by never leaving the comfort of your villa and ordering room service to have while lounging on your veranda. Room service is slow but that hardly matters when you have all the time in the world.
Don't expect to go far or do much at Zeavola. Although those wanting action can make the most of a PADI-dive centre and speedboat excursions around the island. Long-tail boats are also on hand to ferry you back and forth to the main area of the island if you feel you need a reminder of why you didn't book somewhere over there. We were happy to stay put and truly unwind. I don't think I put a pair of shoes on the whole time I was there, which in my mind is true relaxation.
Zeavola, 11 Moo 8 Laem Tong, Koi Phi Phi, Ao Nang, Thailand (+ 66 7562 7024; zeavola.com). Room rates start from £165 per room per night.
