From the window of a buzzing 15-seater seaplane, the scattering of tiny islands that make up the South Nilandhe Atoll spread out like cotton balls encircled by dark rings of coral. After 45 minutes, we make our approach to Vilu Reef, which is immediately recognisable with its arc of 41 over-water villas stretching in a perfect loop across the shallow turquoise lagoon.
The term 'luxury for less' could have been coined for Vilu Reef. It has stunning beaches, infinite Indian Ocean views, a reef teeming with colourful parrot fish and reef sharks, and classic thatched over-water bungalows with decks you can swim from. Essentially, it is the dream. And, crucially, it's affordable.
So what's the catch? There isn't one, as long as you don't mind big resorts (Vilu Reef has 121 rooms in total). All the ultra-luxurious honeymoon resorts the Maldives is known for (Havufen Fushi, Anantara and Cocoa Island to name a few) have designer décor, flashy mod-cons and gourmet food — but the islands are no different from the one Vilu Reef occupies.
At Vilu Reef admittedly, the villas are a tad unloved. The air-con is lacklustre, the curtains are not to everyone's taste, there's no sign of WiFi or iPod jacks making an appearance in the near future, and the menus are old-school with the likes of 'raisin bread and butter pudding' on offer. But here's the thing: it doesn't matter. Natural beauty is what Vilu Reef is all about.
The atmosphere is laid-back, smiley and unpretentious. I'd even go as far as to say it's a bit cheesy and unfashionable (notably the cocktail list), but I've had the privilege of visiting a few of Vilu Reef's more glamorous five-star neighbours and Vilu Reef's beaches are actually better. This is an ideal spot for couples or families who want the Maldives but don't want the romantic fuss — nor the inflated prices.
The Sun Spa offers a fabulous Jetlag massage, which is a must-have after an 11-hour flight. Its two small treatment rooms are built from local materials and scented with rosewood and lavender oil. The heavenly rubdown I received left me relaxed and ready for my stay.
There are plenty of activities and excursions on offer including diving (it has a PADI centre), snorkelling, catamaran sailing, fishing, wind surfing and dolphin cruises. I signed up for a trip to Bandidhoo, a traditional Maldivian island where little has changed in 300 years. Among my group were a German couple who have stayed at Vilu Reef a record-breaking eleven times since it opened in 1998. They tell me it's the friendliest place they've ever been, and I have to agree the Maldivian staff are delightful.
On Bandidhoo, we were greeted by local fishermen proffering fresh coconuts with straws and were taken for a stroll around town, taking in a mosque, a school and lots of craggy charcoal houses built from coral. Fishermen tinker with metal hooks, boat builders scrape away at palm trunks and children hang from makeshift swings underneath trees. It's fascinating to see this traditional way of life ticking along side by side with the glitzy international resorts scattered across this stretch of the Indian Ocean.
Afterwards we headed to a deserted island where a BBQ lunch was awaiting. Chicken, lobster and beef sizzled enticingly on the grill and while a table was stacked high with salads, sauces, rice and pasta and a choice of five different puddings. We have this tiny unspoilt island all to ourselves and as I walk along the beach taking in the blue hues of the ocean and sky, I do a full circuit without seeing another soul. Paradise.
Back at the resort, dinner is at the main restaurant, Nautilus, which delivers a glorious buffet of fresh fish, Thai and Asian cuisine. Then, it's over to the bar where crab racing and karaoke are the order of the evening. Plus, there's that brilliantly cheesy cocktail menu to amuse us of course...
Vilu Reef Beach & Spa Resort, Meedhuffushi, South Nilandhe Atoll, Republic of Maldives; (+960 676 0011); Vilureefmaldives.com. Rates start from £142 per night, per room, including breakfast. Seaplane transfer to the resort is from £218 per person.
