The Peninsula describes itself as a boutique hotel, but it's actually rather big and fancy — although as big and fancy hotels go, it's one of the nicest.
The fanciness is evident in the number of liveried staff that flit around (boutique hotels are content to let you carry your own bags, whereas here a bellhops is on you like lions on an antelope). It has that big-shot Hollywood vibe about it. Although I didn't actually see any stars when I was there, I was quite sure that they had just disappeared around the corner or vacated their breakfast table.
It's old style — there are lots of chandeliers, rugs, faux antiques and draped curtains, which give it a European feel. It feels rather grand rather than modest, built in classic Renaissance style. There are fireplaces, overstuffed sofas and plenty of fresh floral arrangements. You are in no doubt that you are in a world where money is paramount, and dares to speak its name in a very loud voice.
But it's an attractive place, for all its lack of restraint. Set in lush gardens, it feels relaxed and informal despite all the trappings. My room, a standard deluxe, was pleasant, if not particularly original — all pastels, faux-antique furniture and mirrors — and overlooked a verdant courtyard. But if you've got the dough, the Peninsula Suite is the one for you, with 2250 sq feet of floor space, a grand piano and seating for up to ten for dinner parties prepared by the restaurant chef.
I had breakfast at the Belvedere, which describes itself as Los Angeles' 'power dining favourite' and that sums up the vibe of the place perfectly. The two rotund, shiny businessmen sitting on the table next to mine were dropping names faster than glottal stops, and they were there not to eat but to parley. I sat by myself and had the most incredible corned beef hash with tomato coulis, while they ate their eggs braggadocio (and if it wasn't called that, it should have been). The Peninsula is Beverly Hills incarnate — and I loved it.
The Peninsula Beverly Hills, 9882 South Santa Monica Boulevard, Beverly Hills, CA 90212 (+ 1 310 551 2888; peninsula.com/Beverly_Hills/en/default.aspx)
