Each time you open a restaurant it’s like creating a new family — or choreographing a dance, or putting on a play. Even when I opened my first downtown New York restaurant after having been only uptown for many years, it as a huge learning experience, so I couldn’t imagine what it would be like making the transition from New York to London. But, my first London restaurant, Bar Boulud at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park opened last week — and the smooth opening reflected the work behind it, a process which took about a year.
First, I planned the kitchen with the architect and the designer, and then, while the construction was underway, I was also planning the menus and sourcing suppliers. Like all chefs, I have colleagues who recommended suppliers to me — but even so I had to experience everything for myself. One of my first stops was Smithfield meat market, and I went to Billingsgate fish market, and met farmers from just outside London. There’s an amazing array of seafood and meat in England, but the biggest challenge was finding the right pork. Eventually, I found a new breed of pig — a little bit ugly, like a pig that’s hit a wall at 100 miles an hour — but it tastes delicious.
I am from Lyon, which is basically locked between Burgundy in the north and the Rhône in the south. When I created Bar Boulud, it was about creating a bistro-brasserie/wine bar but with a focus on wines from Burgundy and the Rhône — my favourites. I’m a man of tradition, and I have a passion for classic cuisine, but also seasonal cooking — it makes sense to take ingredients at their best — and some innovation, with inspiration from Asia and America. I’m sure the British inspiration will grow on me too. I’ve been to many restaurants in London while working on opening this restaurant, and what I liked the most were the simple things — the smoked haddock at Café Anglais; the steak and kidney pie at Caprice.
Charcuterie is a tradition in Lyon and we have two full-time charcutiers on our staff here in London. We’re making our own ham, our own sausages, our own terrines… or potted meats, as you call it. I’ve had to learn all the little tweaky British English expressions; I love the way that British menus are so full of nostalgia and humour about food - you don’t find that in New York.
Our success in New York is based on trust. I’ve always made sure I offered the best value, the best service, the best food. We give people that feeling that we really enjoy what we do and that we do it with passion and care. I really believe we have no pretention — it’s all about making sure we take care of our customers. Obviously we’re going to be doing that in London, too. And if it’s not perfect at the beginning… then we’ll work even harder to get people wanting to come back.
Bar Boulud, Daniel Boulud’s first European restaurant is at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park. For more information visit barboulud.com/barbouludLondon.html
