Owner Billy Drew has clearly given some thought to his Golden Union Fish Bar in Soho. From wipe-board menu to Formica-topped tables, one might say that it reeks of authenticity, except for the fact that it doesn’t reek at all, unlike many of the seaside town chippies it seeks to emulate. But in every other detail Golden Union is so close in spirit to the 1950s eateries of Britain’s coastal resorts that it verges on theme café.
For this reason alone, The Golden Union will, no doubt, delight tourists seeking that bona fide fish and chips experience, but it’s fairly popular with local workers, too, in an area overwhelmed by European, Oriental and Asian menus. Take away or eat in, you’re guaranteed a pretty good nosh for around a tenner.
Fish, all sea caught in Norway, is cooked to order at a frying range behind glass-fronted display cabinets and portions are plentiful. The cod, at £8.50, was fairly disappointing the day we visited (thus was it ever so?), but the cheaper ling (£8) most flavoursome, if a little bony, while the coley won hands down for nicest texture (and was the cheapest, at £7.50). The batter was smooth and tasty, the chips anaemically pale but surprisingly crisp. And both fish and chips were devoid of the pervasive oiliness that usually accompanies such fare. Greasy spoon this ain’t.
As for the extras, the gherkins and saveloys were succulent, the mushy peas sensational. In fact, the only thing that stuck a little in the gullet was forking out £2 for the homemade tartare sauce, which should surely be gratis, as are the ketchup and other condiments. But one doesn’t wish to carp…
Golden Union Fish Bar, 38 Poland Street, London W1F 7LY
