In Bollywood movies, the sound of a powerful punch is 'dishoom'. Which is also the name of a new London restaurant offering Indian fusion dishes with exactly that. Based in Covent Garden, Dishoom is modelled on Bombay's Irani cafés where Persian immigrants set up popular eating establishments. Sadly, these cafés are now on the decline — during the 60s there were 400 and now there are only 25. London's Dishoom is an homage to their legacy but with a British twist.
It's a popular spot: on the night I visited, it was packed with savvy Londoners and family groups. The décor is all brightly coloured tiles, black-and-white photos on the walls, bentwood chairs, tables topped with marble imported from India and a sign that says, 'All are welcome, whatever caste'.
We take our seats in a booth, which has a great view of the open kitchen. Drinks first: the bottled water was a very reasonable £1 — and ethical (20p goes to fund clean water in Bombay's slums), the mango and fennel lassi was fresh and cooling, but my partner's chaijito cocktail, a Bombay take on the mojito with chai leaves infused in rum, was the winner — dishoom indeed!
The food was melt-in-the-mouth delicious and spicey with just the right amount of kick that doesn't burn the mouth raw. We start with café crisps: light tangy strips with three chutneys. Then, from the small plates section, we dive into bhel — pomegranate, puffed rice balls and nuts with tamarind chutney, a strange concoction but deeply satisfying in texture and flavour — and pau bhaji, a spiced vegetable stew with tomato that came bizarrely with a white soft roll. Chilli cheese toast is exactly what it says: richly melted cheddar on crunchy white bread sprinkled with green chilli. The gunpowder potatoes — grilled, smashed and then tossed with a dry masala — were completely moreish, while from the grill menu, the paneer was nicely charred but succulent and tender inside. The house dhal — a dish that's different all over India — was a thick, rich mix of black lentils with tomato and cream cooked over 24 hours. And to mop it up a roti — we watch as it's thrown, slapped into shape and then cooked over a dome.
My stomach calls time far too soon so we end with a creamy pistachio kulfi on a stick and chai (in proper chai glasses). Despite the crowds, service was charming, knowledgeable and efficient. And the prices are pretty reasonable too for this part of town. There's also a breakfast menu: the Bombay bake with lentil bhaji mash, fruit roti with mascarpone and honey that will surely tempt me back.
My only complaint is the noise, which does reach a rather ear-splitting level as the evening wears on, and although the booths are great to watch the action from, for an intimate tête-à-tête, you should get a smaller table or head downstairs or outside. But overall this place is a gem.
Dishoom, 12 Upper St Martins Lane, London WC2H (+44 (0)20 7420 9320, dishoom.com)
