It may take you a while to work out how to use the ultra high-tech lift that speeds you up to Galvin at Windows on the 28th floor of Park Lane's London Hilton, but believe me, it's worth it.
For a start, there's that view. You can see pretty much the whole of London from up there. Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, the London Eye, the Gherkin, St Paul's Cathedral — you name it, you can see it through floor-to-ceiling windows that stretch right around the restaurant and bar.
Chris Galvin — one half of the Galvin brothers who own three other renowned London restaurants (Galvin Bistrot de Luxe in Baker Street, and Galvin La Chapelle and Galvin Cafe à Vin in Spitalfields) — is the chef-patron. He arrived at the Hilton in 2006, and since then Galvin at Windows has gone on to win three AA Rosettes and, in 2010, its first Michelin star.
The restaurant is a chic, sophisticated space, reminiscent of the Thirties, with comfortable pale leather chairs, rich fabrics and smartly set tables. If you want to impress clients, or a date, you can't go wrong here.
Running the kitchen is Galvin protégé Andre Garrett, who serves a modern French menu that pays great heed to the seasons. An unusual, but successful, amuse bouche of butternut squash mousse, truffle egg and parmesan foam, accompanied by some superb bread, kicked off our dinner (£65 for three courses) as we looked out across the twinkling lights of the capital.
My starter of Loch Duart salmon with Cornish crab, avocado cream and Royal Baccari caviar was so artistically presented it was almost a shame to eat it and every ingredient was so incredibly fresh, the flavours just sang out. The seared Scottish scallops with pumpkin puree, wild chicory, smoked bacon, maple vinaigrette and pomegranate was a combination that worked beautifully.
Next up we had a perfectly cooked fillet of John Dory with orange braised endive, cauliflower puree, curry oil and golden raisins, and a fillet of Scotch beef with foie gras, peppered short rib (a lovely contrast in texture and flavour to the fillet), pommes fondant and red wine braised shallots.
Somehow we managed to fit in dessert. The Valrhona chocolate palet with caramelised banana, salted caramel and white chocolate ice cream, and the hot souffle of banana, chocolate and caramelised peanut. All faultless. With each course we drank a different wine, expertly matched to the food by the excellent sommelier.
The view from Galvin at Windows is reason enough in itself to go, the food is another, and, should you possibly need a third, the service is absolutely first-class.
Galvin at Windows, 28th Floor, London Hilton Hotel on Park Lane, London (+ 44 (0)20 7208 4021; galvinatwindows.com)
