A selection of culinary maestros, including Yotam Ottolenghi and Ruth Rogers, are perched next to our table. A small cove acting as a bookshelf in the corner of The Opera Tavern allows the spines to slump into one another, page next to page. The food at this tapas restaurant, a mishmash of Spanish and Italian served up by Ben Tish and Jamie Thickett is, like the simple wooden shelf, unfussy and understated. Simultaneously it is as accomplished as that of the cooking of the chefs whose recipes are stacked along it — their presence shows a confidence that diners won't leave wishing they'd chosen Ottolenghi or The River Café instead.
The atmosphere in this 19th century former pub, which has tables on two levels with a bar, robata grill and open kitchen on the ground floor, is relaxed and homely. Despite the theatrical front windows, which peer on to Drury Lane, its dark-wood panelling and décor, chatter and the bar's stylish leather stools give it a warm feel that is more Catalonia than Covent Garden.
Opened in January this year, The Opera Tavern is the work of Sanja and Simon Mullins, also behind the award-winning Salt Yard restaurant. The attractive staff are charming, offering personal recommendations that demonstrate they know the menu inside out. As it feels somewhat like we're on holiday, we opt for a pair of fruity bellinis, one raspberry and one passion fruit. Fresh and tangy, they slip down quickly, perhaps a little too quickly.
While pondering what to order from the extensive menu, which includes such wonders as Iberico pork (their speciality), trio of manchego cheeses with quince jam, wild mushroom, leek and truffle croquettes, as well as charcuteries and tapas options, we crunch our way through a plate of Padron peppers served deliciously salty – just how they should be.
Dishes arrive a couple at a time, first up is the chargrilled Salt Marsh lamb with farro, peas, broad beans, wild garlic and goat's curd. Cooked medium-rare, my guest describes it as succulent and tender, perfectly complimented by a rich sauce with the beans adding an enjoyable variation of texture.
The oft-ignored courgette flower, stuffed with goat's cheese and drizzled in honey, was next up. At first glance a seemingly bizarre combination, this sweet-yet-savoury combination is wildly underrated. A crispy light batter gently gives way to a succulent centre that demands to be devoured – get your own plate, you won't want to share.
Carnivores should try the confit of Old Spot pork belly accompanied by creamy cannellini beans delicately flavoured with rosemary, and vegetarians the spring green vegetables with ricotta gnocchi is a bright and tasty option. Dessert wise, whether you want icy scoops of lemon, clementine or cherry sorbet or something more innovative, such as Italian-style meringues served candy-floss soft with saffron cream, poached rhubarb and shards of honeycomb, there will be something on offer to tempt you.
Great for a pre- or post-theatre catch up with friends, or if you want to linger longer (be assured you will want to) its romantic, tucked-away atmosphere makes it ideal for an indulgent dinner à deux.
The Opera Tavern, 23 Catherine Street, London WC2B 5JS (+44 (0)20 7836 3680; operatavern.co.uk)
