British Airways High Life

WHY I LOVE

Portrait of a city: Durham

July 2011

 Page 1 of 1
Tony Blair recalls his first kiss, its stunning architecture and the beautiful views of Durham's countryside

Illustration by Sarah Hanson

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Familiarity can often blind you to the beauty of a place. It's a particular danger when the place was your home. And that's what Durham was to me.

It is the city where I grew up. It's where I enjoyed my first kiss and first night out to the pub — an occasion rather ruined when the barman asked me if I shouldn't still be in short trousers. I passed my driving test on its roads.

Later when I became an MP, I represented Sedgefield just a few miles away and within the county of Durham. So the connection remained close, as it does today. My Faith Foundation has a partnership with the university and my Sports Foundation is training coaches for grassroots sport.

I have known Durham all my life, but I have not lost my appreciation of what makes it so special. I am not alone. I've never met a visitor to Durham who has not been surprised, delighted and, often, a little awestruck by what they find.

Durham is a gem. Rather like a northeastern version of Siena, it has an old centre with cobbled streets. The cathedral is a stunning piece of Norman architecture and, as children are the first to notice, features in the Harry Potter films. It is described as 'one of the greatest architectural experiences of Europe' and, in itself, justifies a visit.

It is set in the Palace Green, which together with Durham Castle, is encircled by the river like some gigantic moat. The university, the third oldest in England after Oxford and Cambridge, is likewise studded with colleges and halls of great beauty. It is a wonderful city to walk around.

The delight of Durham, however, lies not just in the city itself but also in the county to which it gives its name. I spent many happy days at St John's Chapel, a village surrounded by streams and hills. Within 30 minutes, you can be in Teesdale or Weardale, or in the ancient towns of Barnard Castle, Bishop Auckland, Stanhope. Egglestone Abbey, Rokeby Hall, Bowes Castle, Wolsingham, and many other landmarks await visitors too.

In recent years, Durham has become a centre for arts and crafts. There are boutiques, workshops, galleries and superb museums. In the Durham Dales you will find the original Weardale Railway. Or visit the Weardale Museum, where you can discover how people lived in the 19th century. On the site of the old Shildon railworks is now one of the world's premier railway museums — again, only 20 minutes from the city.

Durham's coalmining history is commemorated in the Beamish Museum, which features the communities — whose inhabitants lived in dangerous and deprived conditions — that gave the area its special character. In contrast, the Bowes Museum houses a priceless collection of fine arts in a magnificent French-style chateau at Barnard Castle.

The countryside offers equal variety with wonderful opportunities for walking and watching wildlife. The beauty of the hills and coast are just miles away from the city. For a great day trip, go to Blanchland and have lunch at the ancient inn of Barnard Castle, or visit Romaldkirk, a beautiful village with wonderful walks around and great food at the Rose and Crown. The Durham Dales lie within the North Pennine Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, while the Durham Heritage Coast provides dramatic views. Close by at Castle Eden is a National Nature Reserve. Castle Eden also provides a great local real ale.

But for me, the real joy of Durham will always remain the chance to soak up the atmosphere of the city itself. Wander around the Palace Green, stopping for tea and cakes in the old monastic buildings. Visit the cathedral itself, the ancient tombs of knights and bishops and the nave where, when at Durham Choristers School, I would sit for services. Leave the Cathedral through the cloisters, turning right through the old arch and go down to the riverside. Cars are not allowed and, just 100 yards from the city centre, you can imagine yourself in a different time.

Best of all, grab a chance to chat with the locals. You will find them happy to talk and, particularly older residents, armed with an endless supply of anecdotes about the county's history.

Durham, for me, will always be special. And not just for the part it has played in my life but because the city is a jewel. Discover this treasure for yourself. You won't regret it.

Tony Blair's A Journey (£9.99, Arrow Books) is out now and also available as an ebook.

Posted by Tony Blair

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