London’s Burlington Arcade is currently experiencing a renaissance. Following a multimillion pound renovation, the Regency period mall in Mayfair has recently welcomed a clutch of new independent designers, hip lifestyle brands and accessories labels.
In December, Italian glove specialist Sermoneta opened its first UK store in the arcade on three floors, including a fully bespoke service. Similarly, shoe designer Beatrix Ong has moved her Primrose Hill boutique there.
Ladurée, the French macaroon maker, has launched its first stand-alone boutique in the arcade, occupying a corner site on Piccadilly. The store was designed by iconic French interior designer Roxane Rodriguez to look like a magical gold cave.
Other new shops include Omega, which has opened its first vintage watch store, together with antique watch specialist George Somlo, offering styles from the 1930s, 40s and 50s. Similarly, chic French beachwear brand Vilebrequin has taken up residence.
Meanwhile, longstanding boutiques in the venue have been upping the ante. Church’s, the 130-year-old shoe brand, has refurbished its store. Classic cashmere brand N Peal has also updated its shop interior under creative director Sara Berman.
‘I love the prestige and the history of the location,’ says Joe Mehmet, another newcomer, who opened his salon, Joe’s Hair and Beauty, in the arcade last year. ‘It’s quirky and beautiful. The mix of stores here is great too. It’s all about craftsmanship, very old school and British.’
A common thread of artisanal excellence runs through all the stores in the arcade, whether it’s antique fine jewellery, lovingly restored or reworked to commission, footwear handmade by Crockett & Jones, or luxury Globe-Trotter suitcases and Mackintosh rainwear.
The arcade still retains the glamorous air of a bygone era. Opened in 1819 to great fanfare, it was the first of its kind in the UK. Commissioned by Lord George Cavendish, younger brother of the fifth Duke of Devonshire, who had inherited the neighbouring Burlington House (now the Royal Academy), it was designed by Samuel Ware and would inspire other similar ventures including the St-Hubert Gallery in Brussels, the Passage in St Petersburg, the Galleria Umberto I in Naples and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan.
When it opened, the arcade consisted of a single, straight top-lit walkway, lined with 72 small units. It housed a host of fine milliners, lace-makers and corsetières, many of whom lived in cramped conditions above and below the shops.
Stores were patronised by royalty and the highest echelons of London society, including the Prince Regent, who had his gold lace collars made there. During the Crimean war, Lord Panmure, Minister for War, requested designs from jewellers Hancocks for a new award, which resulted in the Victoria Cross.
Go to the next page to discover how Mayfair is reinventing itself, with fashion powerhouses and celebrity landlords moving in.
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