Jaeger's A/W 11 Collection had a very British Raj feel about it. Did this period of history inspire you?
The collection was inspired by the notion of Britishness, but in a very broad sense of the word. I wanted to reflect the melting pot that is British culture — it's a legacy we've inherited from the time of the British Empire.
I did a lot of research at Kensington Palace and looked at the history of court dress, which is reflected in the military feel of the collection. I also used very British fabrics such as dogtooth patterns and Prince of Wales checks. But I mixed it up with bright jewel colours and a spicy palette of turmeric golds, punchy fuschia and bold reds – all inspired by India.
How does your creative process work?
I start thinking about a season over a year before we do our shows. For instance, I came up with the concept for this year's winter collection way back in June 2010. I do a general creative brief to the team and they put the themes into reality. I have a part to play in it all though — from fabric choice to how the pattern cutting is progressing. I'm very hands on. The fashion show is the most concentrated time for me and the team. It takes about six weeks to put it together and we can still be sewing something an hour before the model is on the runway.
Does travelling inspire you?
I've always been a passionate traveller. I've been to lots of different places — Burma, India, Kenya, Thailand… I never lose my appetite for seeing new places. And I love seeing things like different national dress and the way different colours are used together. It can really help with new ideas.
What are your top three favourite destinations and why?
I recently visited Patagonia. It was an impromptu trip and I went alone, which is not something I often do. It was amazing with incredible scenery — especially travelling through the glaciers. I also love Stromboli, an island off the coast of Sicily, and its dramatic volcanoes, and Jordan where I stayed in an amazing spa and had the most relaxing time — lots of mud treatments and floating in the sea. It was very therapeutic.
How important is Jaeger's archive collections to the design future pieces?
It's a big starting point for us. We always look at archives before coming up with new concepts for inspiration and I'll always see something that I missed before. We adapt everything so they are modern, relevant and wearable for today's woman.
Jaeger's first shop opened in 1884 and the label is one of Britain's best–loved brands. How important is this history to you as creative director?
It is very important to me — and is a huge part of what Jaeger stands for. My speciality is heritage brands. Before Jaeger, I was at Pringle and we turned it from a small knitwear brand into an internationally recognised one. I also studied history, which I love, so to be able to combine that with fashion is a dream come true.
Jaeger is known for its fabulous coats. Are they an integral part of the A/W 11 collection?
Without doubt, a great coat is always the central part of any Jaeger winter collection. Our coats are not overtly trend–led, we try to keep them authentic and classic, so customers get a great investment buy. This time coats have a military vibe about them and we have played with different lengths and colours to keep them modern.
Jaeger's cashmere ballet slippers and leather purse are both available on board and are great sellers, why do you think they are so popular?
Because they are so beautiful and everyone should treat themselves to a classic Jaeger accessory! I like to think of the slippers and purse as little luxuries for everyone to indulge in when they travel and cashmere and leather continue to play such an important role in all Jaeger collections.
How do you keep the label fresh, young and hip while still attracting a core customer?
Through our sub–brands we try and cater for all types of women. Boutique by Jaeger is aimed at twentysomethings. The clothes are very cute and
have a lower price point to attract a younger customer. Jaeger is classic and luxurious. Jaeger London is a more fingeron-the-pulse, high fashion collection while Jaeger Black offers more sartorial, tailored pieces — perhaps for the high-powered executive. We also try and keep our shows exciting and must-see. This helps to keep the label moving on and to get us talked about in the press.
The age of celebrity endorsement is upon us. What three 'names' would you choose to front a Jaeger advertising campaign?
Melissa Tammerijn is my favourite at the moment. She is a great model going from strength to strength internationally, and actually features in our forthcoming ad campaigns. She is very Jaeger. I also love Bonnie Wright, an up-and-coming British actress — she'd be perfect for Boutique by Jaeger. And the actress Emily Blunt.
If Jaeger had a soundtrack — what three songs would be on the album?
I love so many artists but I would have to say: Trick Pony by Charlotte Gainsbourg; Pop goes the World by Gossip and, finally, Knocked Up by Kings of Leon.
Jaeger's menswear is fairly under the radar — can you see this having more prominence in future?
Our menswear is a tailored collection and we have kept it as such. But we've tweaked it over the past three years — by looking at improving fit and introducing things like engineered fabrics. We are now getting a name for great suits and shirts with an excellent cut, which are value for money.
And, lastly, what does the future hold for Jaeger?
We will be expanding internationally. We have stores opening this year in Russia and we will be looking at other areas to expand into as well. It's all about taking the British brand overseas!
This article originally appeared in High Life Shop!
