The festive 40: the best things to do in London this winter

Words: Elizabeth Winding
Illustrations: Olivia Waller

1. Get your skates on
Few things feel more festive than taking to the ice, as fairy lights twinkle overhead – especially if you manage to score tickets to Somerset House’s beautiful winter rink. Other classics include the riverside Glide at Battersea Power Station, the skyscraper-edged Ice Rink Canary Wharf and the Palace Ice Rink at Hampton Court. The latter’s weekend gatherings are particularly good for kids, with family sessions, ice sculpting and a skating Santa.

 2. Find Neverland at Kenwood
Second star to the right and straight on till morning? This winter, finding Neverland is more a matter of hopping on the overground to Hampstead, with a Peter Pan-themed light trail popping up at Kenwood House. It’ll whisk you from London’s glimmering skyline to a more magical realm, where you can creep though the Lost Boys’ hideout and scope out Hook’s pirate ship. 21 November–3 January

3. Up your mince pie game
There are many contenders when it comes to London’s greatest mince pie, but any quest to find the best should include the buttery, caramelised pies at Toklas, Fortitude’s sugar-dusted beauties and Toad Bakery’s boozy, cherry-spiked take. St JOHN’s sturdy, brandy-soaked pies are also exceptionally good, and substantial enough to get you through the greyest winter’s afternoon.   

4. Stumble on St James’s secret tree
At this time of year, the city is dotted with show-stopping Christmas trees, from Trafalgar Square’s soaring spruce to Covent Garden’s twinkling, bow-wrapped beauty. Perhaps the prettiest of all, though, is on Pickering Place. Dive through the narrow alleyway at 3 St James’s Street to find it on a scaled-down Georgian square that feels more like a film set.

5. Go nuts for The Nutcracker
Tchaikovsky’s sugar-dusted ballet is everywhere this year. The Royal Ballet’s sumptuous production is a Christmas classic, but there’s also lots to like at the Coliseum, from dancing liquorice allsorts and fantastical sets to half-price tickets for kids. Alternatively, check out the Nutcracker-themed Santa’s grotto at the Queen’s House in Greenwich, or the grown-ups-only Nutcracker Noir, an immersive dining experience in Shoreditch.

6. Cheer on the Serpentine swimmers
A fixture on Christmas morning since 1864, the Peter Pan Cup sees a band of stoic swimmers take to the Serpentine’s chilly waters for a 100-yard race. Wrap up warm and head to the south bank of the lake to catch the start at 9am (only members of the Serpentine Swimming Club are allowed to take the plunge). Christmas Day

7. Take a wintry walk in Hampstead
On a crisp, clear winter’s day, nothings banishes seasonal blues like a walk in Hampstead. Stomp across the frosty heath then head into Hampstead Village, where wreaths hang on every door and Christmas trees twinkle in the windows. Do a spot of festive shopping or warm up in a pub: the 18th-century Holly Bush has fireside seats and lots of cosy nooks, as does the Spaniard’s Inn.

8. Sing a carol or two
Tap into the spirit of Christmas past with carols at St Paul’s below its gilded mosaics and magnificent dome. It’s free to attend, though you’ll need to enter a ballot for the services closest to Christmas. By Trafalgar Square, St Martin’s in the Field is famous for its candlelit carols, while Battersea Cats & Dogs Home runs four fundraising concerts at St Luke’s & Christ Church in Chelsea, with assorted rescue dogs in attendance.

9. Be swept away by The Red Shoes
Matthew Bourne’s The Red Shoes is back at Sadler’s Wells this winter, inspired both by the fairy tale and the 1940s film. There’s no chance of a happy ending here, but it’s still a dazzling show, thanks to Bourne’s virtuoso choreography and some truly stunning sets. Afterwards squeeze into the Harlequin pub for a post-show pint or wander nearby Exmouth Market in search of a convivial late supper. 2 December–18 January

10. Look up
From early November, Christmas lights start twinkling across town. Oxford Street, of course, always puts on a dazzling show, while LED-lit angels swoop over Regent’s Street, and Bond Street is decked with luminous crowns and tiaras. Carnaby Street’s ‘All is Bright’ display takes a more abstract approach, with colourful geometric shapes, while South Bank is staging ‘Winter Light’: a series of bold, artist-designed light sculptures and installations.

11. Breakfast on a festive naan roll…
The streaky-bacon naan roll at Dishoom is up there with the city’s greatest breakfasts. Come Christmas, though, the team ups the stakes with a seasonal special – this year, working with social media superstar Seema Pankhania. The result is pretty persuasive, combining masala, mustard and honey-roasted pigs in blankets with cranberry cream cheese, tomato-chilli jam, a fried egg and fresh coriander.

12. Or feast on a Christmas sandwich
Looking for the ultimate seasonal sarnie? Start at Borough’s Black Pig (last year’s ‘Sleigher’ was an epic), or see what The Dusty Knuckle has dreamt up – it excels at unexpected combos, such as porchetta and quince aïoli, or Gorgonzola crème with Brussel tops. Chatsworth Bakehouse is also a contender, thanks to its turkey-pastrami ‘Blue Christmas’ and inventive veggie specials (make ours the one stuffed with stracchino cheese and rosemary roast potatoes).  

13. Cosy up in a floating igloo
Various igloo-style pods pop up on London’s rooftops every winter, but Skuna Boats has gone one better, with skippered ‘igloo boats’ for hire. Sail around West India Quay before mooring up for a fondue (cheese or chocolate – your call). The boats come equipped with hot water bottles, blankets and Bluetooth speakers, and accommodate up to nine guests. It’s bonkers, certainly, but so is the rest of the fleet. There’s also a floating, wood-fired hot tub, heated to 40°C.

14. Feel festive in Covent Garden…
Covent Garden always does Christmas in style, with its soaring tree, oversized bells and a parked-up sleigh in the piazza. If you’ve got children to buy for, Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop is straight from a fairy tale’s pages: an old-fashioned emporium of Victorian-style paper theatres. A few streets away, stationery store Choosing Keeping is one of London’s best shops for gifts, with everything from stocking-filler trinkets to Japanese silkscreen prints.

15. …Then indulge in a seasonal tipple 
If you like a bit of kitsch at Christmas you’ll love Miracle at Henrietta, a pop-up bar in Covent Garden with a penchant for tacky decorations. It’s a riot of light-up snowmen, tinsel and leaping reindeer, best admired over a cheeky Snowball Old Fashioned. Too much? Head next door and claim a stool at Henri’s marble bar, for grown-up Cognacs and cocktails, such as the warming, sloe gin-laced Annette.

16. See the light at Kew
The winter light trail at Kew Gardens is back, and it’s more fantastical than ever. New installations include giant floating petals and fungus-inspired fibreoptics, while a walkway leads across the Palm House Pond dotted with illuminated lilies. Old favourites include the Fire Garden and showstopping cathedral of light (if you’re planning a proposal, this could be the spot). 14 November–4 January

17. Sing your heart out
Remember the days of so-bad-they’re-good Christmas hits? So do the organisers of Massaoke, a shamelessly euphoric group singalong where tasteful has no place on the playlist. Accompanied by a live band, confetti cannons and pyrotechnics, the hits just keep on coming at its Christmas Live events, with bangers from the likes of The Pogues, Slade and Her Royal Highness Mariah. 5 & 19 December

18. Watch pantomime horses trot by
The city’s silliest seasonal tradition? Possibly the London Pantomime Horse Race, which sees competitors in panto horse costumes (plus a few rogue camels and cows) galloping around Greenwich. There’s a ‘rock stars’ theme this year – say hello to Amy Winehorse and Hoof Springsteen – and all proceeds go to Great Ormond Street Children’s Hospital. 14 December

19. Scoop up a seasonal ice-cream
Cult café Fink’s is serving up its pumpkin spice latte ice-cream sandwich with black pepper and gingerbread, while Leyton favourite Chunk Provisions has all kinds of festive gelato, from mince pie to panettone, along with a meringue-encased ‘gelato bomb Alaska’ (it feeds up to six, so bring your friends). Soho gelateria Gelupo is another excellent bet: try the prune and Armagnac gelato in a toasted Sicilian brioche bun.

20. Meet Mr Claus
Santa’s a busy man at this time of year. He’ll be leading story sessions by the tree at Kenwood House and at Chelsea Physic Garden, where he’ll preside over a charming, greenhouse-themed grotto. For a more traditional meet and greet, book the Victorian grotto at the London Museum Docklands, or head to London Zoo, where VIP sessions include breakfast with the elves and an early-morning tour of the zoo.  

21. Browse a Christmas market…
There’s a Christmas market to cater to all your festive shopping needs. All-rounders include Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland, and the Southbank Centre’s riverside chalets, while Kingston Christmas Market has bratwurst, carollers and a cider-fuelled open mic night. After artier wares? Try Peckham’s Independent Ceramics Market or the Beautiful & Useful Craft Fair at the Garden Museum. Various dates in November and December

22. …Or a Finnish Christmas fair
Can’t make it to Helsinki for a spot of Christmas shopping? Then head to Rotherhithe for the next best thing: the joulumyyjäiset (Christmas Fair) at the Finnish Church. Roll up early to avoid the snaking queue and soak up the seasonal good cheer. You’ll find stalls piled with homemade gifts and hand-knitted socks, plus blueberry pie and cinnamon buns in the upstairs café. 28-30 November & 5-7 December

23. Explore Winter Wonderland
Everything’s super-sized at Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland, from the ice rink and rollercoasters to the steins of beer. It’s undeniably hectic, but also enormous fun, whether you’re marvelling at Cirque Berserk’s acrobats or braving the ice slide. It’s quieter in the daytime, but most atmospheric come the evening, when thousands of glimmering lights illuminate the stalls and rides. 14 November–1 January

24.  …Or add a Caribbean twist
Representation matters, which is where Noir Kringle comes in. In the brick-vaulted arches of Shoreditch’s old railway station, a jovial Black Santa presides over the cheeriest of grottos. Kids can help Mrs Kringle rustle up some reindeer food and attend a mini elf school before a group meet-and-greet with the man himself. 17-22 December

25. Warm up in a sauna  
Tap into the city’s thriving sauna culture at Rooftop Saunas Hackney, hiding out in a timber-lined private cabin (cold-water showers optional). The non-profit Community Baths has outposts across town and a warmly inclusive ethos, while Peckham’s Sauna Social Club draws a hip but friendly clientele, especially at its laidback, DJ-soundtracked weekend sessions. 

26. See roses bloom in Chelsea
Welcome to the Ever After Garden’s new location: Chelsea’s Duke of York Square. Best explored at dusk, it’s a garden like no other, filled with more than 30,000 illuminated white roses. It’s a place to remember lost loved ones and dedicate a rose to their memory, with proceeds going to The Royal Marsden Cancer Charity. 13 November–16 December

27. Festoon your front door  
All the best-dressed doors in the city will be sporting a wreath, including 10 Downing Street. Create your own at Botanique Workshop on Exmouth Market, or with cult Hackney florist Rebel Rebel, whose two-hour workshops also involve prosecco and mince pies. If you’re after a real statement piece, book a workshop at Osterley Park, where you’ll craft your wreath from colourful sari offcuts. Various dates in November and December

28. Pay a visit to Dennis Severs’ House
Commune with the ghosts of Christmas past at this Spitalfields townhouse – more a time machine than a museum, with stage-worthy set-ups in each room. Climb the creaking stairs to admire the festive scene, with decorations, crackling fires and a half-eaten Christmas feast. The candlelit Silent Night tours are magical, with no talking allowed, while daytime visits are more relaxed. 21 November–11 January

29. Heckle a dame 
You’re never too old for a pantomime: think singalongs, slapstick comedy and no end of innuendo. Have a ball at Hackney Empire’s take on Cinderella, or celebrity-spot at the London Palladium, where Catherine Tate and Julian Clary are starring in Sleeping Beauty. Drag queen Victoria Scone plays the dame at the King’s Head Theatre’s Jack and the Beanstalk, whose run includes some adults-only shows (take care when booking the tickets).  

30. Quaff a cult hot chocolate
Maximalists should opt for Chin Chin’s take, with its blowtorched quiff of marshmallow fluff, or Dark Sugars’ decadent version, heaped with chocolate shards. Alternatively, micro-manage every aspect of your drink at Knoops, from the strength of the chocolate – single-origin, of course – to the milk, spicing and extras. A pinch of Szechuan pepper, a hint of star anise, or a huge homemade marshmallow? Anything’s possible here.

31. Invest in afternoon tea
There’s a Christmassy twist at all the best teas in town. Nibble on a chai mousse Santa’s hat at The Shangri La, have a blow-out at The Savoy, or bite into a bauble at the InterContinental London Park Lane. In Belgravia, Anya Café serves up ginger reindeer cakes and lemon curd-meringue snowmen, while The Biscuiteers’ Notting Hill café will leave the kids wide-eyed with wonder, and offers icing masterclasses alongside its themed teas.

32. Binge on festive movies…
You can count on the Prince Charles Cinema for eclectic seasonal screenings, running from spirited singalongs to 35mm screenings. For those with the stamina, its infamous all-nighter is back – the Christmas Pyjama Party (13 December). The line-up always features Home Alone – which you can also catch at the Royal Albert Hall (6-13 December), this time with a live orchestral score.

33. …Or wander an enchanted forest
For an even more immersive experience, book your seats at Backyard Cinema, popping up in London Bridge until the end of December. A Victorian warehouse is transformed into an enchanted forest, with flurries of snow, fairy-lit bars and a Christmas cabaret room. Choose from a non-stop line-up of seasonal crowd-pleasers, from The Holiday to How the Grinch Stole Christmas.

34. Go for a Boxing Day stroll
After the excesses of Christmas Day, a wintry walk is required – and Richmond Park’s meadows and ancient woodland make for an epic backdrop. Bring a flask of tea and stash of leftover mince pies and look out for its resident deer or join the free guided walk at 10am on Boxing Day.

35. Book Pinocchio at The Globe
The porky-telling puppet makes his debut at Shakespeare’s Globe in a brand-new musical. Based on Carlo Collodi’s original tale rather than Disney’s version, it’ll star scene-stealing puppets alongside the human cast. Prices start at £5 for a standing ticket in the yard, though as usual there are seats in the galleries, too, where you can (and should) rent cushions. 29 November–4 January

36. Sign up for Christmas crafts at Hogarth’s House
Eighteenth-century painter William Hogarth once lived in this handsome Chiswick pile, now a museum with an excellent line-up of workshops. Design your own wrapping paper, make honeycomb baubles for the tree or create an impressive embossed card on the intaglio printing press. At less than a tenner, the prices are a steal and include a restorative mince pie.

37. Become a curling pro
Discover a less dangerous winter sport at The Curling Club, popping up in in Chelsea and at London Bridge’s Vinegar Yard. Invented by snowbound Scots, it’s like lawn bowls on ice – though here it’s played on a smooth, polished surface instead. If you’d rather try it on real ice, skating-rink Queens has dedicated lanes on Thursday and Friday nights.

38. Choose your Scrooge
There’s a staging of A Christmas Carol for everyone, starting with the Old Vic’s classic, mince pie-fuelled production. The Great Christmas Feast takes a different tack. Whisked back to 1843, you’re dining with Charles Dickens, who’ll be reading the story himself. Sadler’s Wells East, meanwhile, is staging Ebony Scrooge – a hip-hop version where the penny-pinching Scrooge becomes a mean fashion mogul.

39. Celebrate the solstice 
This year’s winter solstice falls on 21 December. Wake up early for the annual livestream of sunrise at Stonehenge, then spend the afternoon in Greenwich Park, whose one-day Winter Solstice Festival kicks off at noon. It promises otherworldly drumming, street-food stalls and live science demos, plus the chance to scan the heavens through some state-of-the-art telescopes.

40. Don’t burn the Brussels sprouts
Who wants to spend Christmas Day in their oven gloves? Instead, leave the catering to the professionals. A host of indulgent eateries are open on the big day, from The Ritz (brace yourself: it doesn’t come cheap) to the likes of Duck & Waffle. For classic festive cheer, try a pub such as The Cadogan Arms or spice things up the Cinnamon Club, where turkey doesn’t even get a look in.

Explore London