London restaurants worth the splurge

Words: Hannah Hopkins and Matt Richardson-Wood

Let’s be honest: London’s dining scene moves at such a frenzied pace that there’s a groundbreaking new opening every other Tuesday. But when you’re planning a serious night out – the kind where you want the food to be as sharp as the outfit – you need more than just hype. Whether it’s a front-row seat at a clandestine Soho chef’s table, a bit of table-side theatre, or the pure joy of a ‘Press for Champagne’ button, these six spots are worth every penny.

MA/NA

You wouldn't stumble upon MA/NA by accident, and that’s precisely the point. Tucked away on Upper Grosvenor Street, the space feels like a meditative sanctuary before revving up into something much more electric as the evening progresses. The dining room is anchored by a dramatic, coiled dragon-shaped banquette, providing a backdrop for a menu that strikes a balance between delicate precision and primal heat. Standout dishes such as the tiger shrimp tempura with a punchy wasabi cream set the tone, but the real theatre lies in the M5 Wagyu, seared at the table on a glowing Himalayan salt stone that’s guaranteed to stop all conversation. As the night matures, the 1970s Tokyo soul soundtrack deepens and the transition to the cocktail bar becomes seamless. Our pick? The Noble Martini, spiked with honeyed Château d’Yquem, for a finish that is pure liquid gold.

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Pavyllon London

Yannick Alléno is one of those rare culinary masters who manages to carry 18 Michelin stars without ever feeling stuffy. His London debut at the Four Seasons in Park Lane is a masterclass in laidback luxury. Think vibrant energy and an interactive 30-seater open kitchen counter rather than formal white tablecloths. Alléno is famous for his technique of extraction (cooking in a vacuum to capture the pure essence of ingredients), meaning the food is incredibly deep in flavour with reduced sugar, fat and salt. For the full experience, the Immersive Mayfair menu is the way to go. It’s a beautifully paced journey through dishes such as the steamed Comté cheese soufflé – essentially a savoury cloud with eel butter – and a brown butter confit cod that tastes like a summer afternoon. It’s the kind of high-end dining that feels like a treat rather than a test, especially when finished with a delectable hazelnut île flottante. 

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Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal

There is a specific kind of hush that falls over the room at Alex Dilling’s two-star outpost. It’s the sound of a kitchen operating at the very top of its game. Set within the iconic Hotel Café Royal and overlooking the curve of Regent Street, this is fine dining that manages to feel incredibly personal; mostly because there are only 34 seats in the house. Dilling is famous for being a perfectionist, and it shows in the extra mile he goes with every plate. His Kaluga caviar with sweetcorn and smoked eel is so technically flawless it’s almost heartbreaking to actually eat it, and the pâté de campagne (loaded with Iberico pork and foie gras) is likely to ruin all other versions for you forever. It’s certainly an investment meal, but for anyone who loves the sheer craft of a kitchen firing on all cylinders, it’s a masterclass in why we still fall in love with white-tablecloth service. 

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Ibai

Round the corner from the Brutalist Barbican, you’ll find a sparse but welcoming space ideal for a splurgey night out. Ibai focuses on high-end fare from the foodie-focused Basque region. This is impress-your-mates-or-clients territory. There are two ways you can approach the menu – plan backwards, choosing your preferred cut of dry-aged Galician Blonde beef first and then all the smaller plates to work up to it (be sure to order the showstopping croque Ibai, a take on a croque monsieur with prawns, black pudding and lashings of cheese). Or you can take the hit on the unctuous king crab rice, another key centre point, and swerve the steak altogether. Even better, book out one of the group booths for a long business lunch, and go the whole cow.

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Bob Bob Ricard

Famous for its ‘Press for Champagne’ buttons at every table – which reportedly pour more bubbles than any other restaurant in the UK – Bob Bob Ricard is a Soho institution that knows exactly how to host a party. Sliding into one of the royal blue leather booths designed by David Collins brings an immediate sense of occasion, evoking the high-glamour romance of the Orient Express. The meal typically begins with traditional pelmeni dumplings, served bellies up and drowned in a rich, velvety lobster bisque, often accompanied by a shot of vodka served at a bracing -18°C. The beef Wellington remains the non-negotiable centrepiece, featuring a precise pink centre and pastry so crisp it shatters on contact. To finish, the signature Chocolate Glory provides the final bit of theatre, as a gold-leafed dome melts away under hot chocolate sauce to cap off the ultimate splurge.

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Carbone

In 2012, chef Mario Carbone opened his 1950s-inspired Italian restaurant – imagine interiors akin to The Godfather – in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village. It became a place to see and be seen, with Rihanna, Leonardo DiCaprio and the Obamas stopping for spicy vodka rigatoni. Other outposts followed. The latest location? London’s new Chancery Rosewood and its cavernous basement inside the former US Embassy. Take in the sheer scale of everything – from glossy dining rooms to abstract art installations – and cosy up on a leather banquette for immediate delivery of pillowy, tomatoey bread, neatly rolled cured meats and aged Parmigiano Reggiano. Signature favourites such as Dover sole and Caesar salad are served table-side for a hint of drama, while London exclusives showcase the best of UK produce: the rosemary and pork lardo-finished scallops flown from Scotland each morning. It’s a high-octane slice of New York glamour that proves some imports are well worth the investment.

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